We have always wanted to take our adult children to Ireland to experience and learn about one portion of their heritage. George’s mom was born in Ireland and emigrated to Canada with her family (single mother and seven siblings) when she was 11. George’s dad, while born in Canada, was also part-Irish. Money from my dad’s estate gave us the financial ability to pay for much of the trip.

George, Jennifer and I left on August 25th and met George Jr in Belfast shortly after landing. We had mapped out our itinerary and booked our accommodations in advance. Some tours/entrance fees were booked before we left Canada to ensure availability, others were booked on-the-go one or two days in advance.

Belfast – We spent three nights in Belfast at the downtown Holiday Inn. The location was ideal for walking into the city core, which we did the first evening after a brief rest. A well-recommended fish and chip shop was our dinner choice. The next day we took a Black Cab tour – a private tour for the four of us. Our cabbie was generous with his time, well-informed, and provided interesting commentary on a number of sites related to “the troubles.” Belfast is definitely a city of murals, and one can’t travel far without being confronted by the history of the events of the past. The cabbie’s question of whether we had Irish roots, prompted a discussion of where George’s mom lived prior to emigrating and his promise to take us by her street on our way back to the hotel. It was so kind of him to stop his cab and offer to take pictures for us. The afternoon was free time, which allowed for some of us to have a rest and for others to go walk around town. Sunday night’s dinner was at a Thai restaurant just around the corner from the hotel.

Dinner Monday evening was a special occasion as it was mom’s 75th birthday. We went to a most novel restaurant called Stix and Stones, a steakhouse. The novelty centered around how the steaks are cooked. In the kitchen they just sear the steaks and bring them to the table on a board that includes a stone heated to 450F. By slicing and cooking your steak at the table, each mouthful is hot, succulent and tender. It truly was a unique experience and a wonderful birthday celebration.

Londonderry – On Tuesday, we left Belfast and headed out towards Londonderry. We had planned a number of stops along the way but the wet, windy weather preempted some of those. We passed on a stop at the Carrick-a-Rede-Rope bridge which was closed due to high winds. We made a brief stop at the Dark Hedges, which appeared to be a popular spot. Dad and I had not seen any of the Game of Thrones series but our kids were fans. A nice cafe provided a quick stop for hot chocolate.

Our lunch spot was a serendipity as the town (Ballycastle) where we planned to stop was holding its Ould Lammas Fair – a celebration of the harvest. We decamped and wandered through the stalls, each choosing a lunch item, and sat listening to music while we ate. It certainly was a busy spot and the weather was much nicer than earlier in the day.

The next stop was the Giant’s Causeway. Because of the wet, windy weather (it returned!), Jenn and I spent just a few minutes down around the stones, which were very slippery, and then took the bus back up the hill to the visitor’s centre. George and dad hiked to the top of the far hill and back again. It’s an unbelievable spot to visit, but is better when it’s sunny and dry!

On our itinerary was a brief visit to Portrush, home of PGA golfer, Rory McIlroy. In the end, it became our stop for dinner as we had spent so much time at the Giant’s Causeway and the Ould Lammas Fair. By the time we arrived, the clouds had parted and the sun made its second appearance for the day. A resort town, it is home to popular places like Barry’s Amusements, some amazing beaches, and, of course, a very well-known golf club.

Our stop for the night was the Holiday Inn in Derry, well situated downtown for our walking tour the next day but somewhat difficult to access as the unloading area is right on a very busy main street. The tour took us through a section of Derry covering the history of the Battle of Bogside and Bloody Sunday Massacre, and pointing out various landmarks including the Free Derry Corner and Bloody Sunday Monument. Again, as in Belfast, murals everywhere are a reminder of the troubled times many lived through. While Dad and I had done both tours on a previous trip to Ireland, we were pleasantly surprised to hear our children’s favourable comments about both tours including their impression that the Belfast tour told the story from the Protestant perspective while the Derry tour told the same story from the Catholic perspective. Both, they felt, were well-balanced reflections.

Sligo – On Wednesday after lunch, we left Derry en route to Sligo. While it’s a relatively short distance, there is a lot to see along the way and many diversions to be taken. We stopped in Donegal so the train buffs amongst us could visit the Railway Heritage Museum. The County Donegal Railway was the largest narrow gauge railway system in the British Isles and operated in various lengths, routes and varying degrees of success from the 1840s to the 1950s. Much of the railway’s locomotives, railcars and rolling stock has survived in various museums, including here in Donegal.

Our stop for the next two nights was the Riverside Inn in Sligo. The hotel is well situated in town with some rooms having lovely views of the river. After dinner at the Mill Bar on site, we went for a short walk around town before turning in for the night.

On Thursday, our travels took us to Yeats Country to visit the Marble Arch Caves, Benbulbin mountain & Glencar Waterfall. Under the vibrant green hills of Fermanagh lies a labyrinth of caves, sinkholes and subterranean rivers. Amongst them is the Marble Arch Caves which is the most active river showcave in Ireland and the UK and a key site within the Cuilcagh Lakelands UNESCO Global Geopark. A guided tour begins with a descent to an underground walkway, followed by a short boat trip, an informative description outlining how the caves were formed, viewing of various awe-inspiring formations, and a return to the visitor’s centre. The onsite cafe provided a welcome stop for a quick lunch. There are a number of hiking trails nearby and some of our group trooped off in search of a boardwalk, which they didn’t find.

Benbulbin mountain is a large flat-topped mountain protected as a Geological Site. It is a favourite hiking spot for locals – a gentle climb on the south side but a hazardous climb on the north side caused by the impact of high winds and storms from the North Atlantic. We chose to see it from a distance as time did not permit hiking. The drive through to the Glencar waterfalls was a pleasant trip through peaceful countryside aided by the appearance of the sun.

Hidden away within lush forest just north of the lough, Glencar Waterfall isn’t the biggest waterfall in Ireland but it’s undoubtedly one of its most picturesque. The green foliage, craggy rocks and cascading water all make for a gorgeous scene – basically, you can see why Yeats was so inspired!

We returned to Sligo in time for dinner, again at the Mill Bar. Afterwards we strolled through town, some of us in search of dessert and others in search of Irish music. Both groups returned to the hotel having found what they went in search of but also a little damp having experienced the famous unexpected Irish shower.

In the morning, I went off with George Jr to do laundry at an outdoor laundromat – definitely a new experience – but it worked. Dad and Jenn toured the Sligo Abbey, a Dominican convent founded in 1253. It was built in the Romanesque style with some later additions and alterations. Extensive ruins remain, mainly of the church and the cloister.

Galway – We left Sligo mid-morning and stopped at Cawley’s Guesthouse in Tubbercurry for lunch. A nice patio in the back provided for an al fresco dining experience. The food and service were both topnotch. Our stop for the next two nights was the Coach House Hotel in Oranmore. Service was very spotty and the rooms booked were not provided on check-in requiring a subsequent move. Parking is quite limited and we found it easier to just park in the town lot a short distance from the hotel. An on-site restaurant provides breakfast but doesn’t open until 8:30. After decamping we drove into Galway in search of dinner and a stroll around town. We chose a steakhouse called Rouge for dinner. Originally just open for dinner, Rouge pivoted during the pandemic to also offer a daytime menu of french pastries and coffees. In the evening there’s live music and a french vibe.

Saturday was a very busy, full day. We left early morning to visit mom’s favourite spot in Ireland – Kylemore Abbey. Kylemore Castle was built in 1868 as a private home for the family of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy doctor from London whose family was involved in textile manufacturing in Manchester, England. He moved to Ireland when he and his wife Margaret purchased the land around the Abbey, after having travelled there on their honeymoon in the mid-1840s. He became a politician, becoming an MP for County Galway from 1871 to 1885. The grounds include a Gothic chapel, family mausoleum, and a Victorian walled garden that is being returned to its original plan. The property was sold to the Duke and Duchess of Manchester in 1903. In 1920, the Castle became a Benedictine Monastery founded by nuns who fled Belgium during WWI. Although there are few nuns left living at the Abbey, the Kylemore Trust continues to operate the property, intentionally restoring portions of it to its original design, and has a unique partnership with Notre Dame University in the United States. Our visit was brief because we had to return to Galway by mid-afternoon, but everyone enjoyed the visit immensely.

Back in Galway, Jenn and I did the Food Tour which had been recommended by one of her friends. Galway is becoming well known as the food capital of Ireland and our tour included stops with samples at many craft businesses, up-and-coming restaurants and well-known establishments. This tour is highly recommended but book early – it sells out quickly. Dad and George did a walking tour of Galway which covered the history and architectural features of the city. Dinner was at the King’s Head Pub, but Jenn and I could only watch. We were too full from our tour except to enjoy a Murphy’s Ice Cream on our way back to the car.

Killarney – Sunday was a long day as we headed for Killarney with a number of planned stops. First up was a trip out to Kilmacdaugh Abbey. The road was quite exciting with some of us wondering if our driver really knew where he was going! The site is thought to date back to the seventh century although the current buildings are not originals. It’s thought that the “leaning” tower dates back to the 10th century.

The next stop across the Burren was Poulnabrone Domen, a large single-chamber portal tomb. Situated in one of the most desolate and highest points in the area, it consists of three portal stones and a horizontal capstone. It’s thought to date back to the Neolithic Period, around 3800 and 3200 BC. When the site was excavated in the 1980s, the remains of 33 adults and children were uncovered including stone and bone objects buried with the dead. It was a very interesting stop, one that we might have missed if not for George Jr.

Then it was off across the Burren to The Cliffs of Moher. Probably Ireland’s most visited tourist spot, the cliffs run for about 14 km along the Atlantic Ocean with spectacular views from 120 – 214 meters above the ocean. While Dad and I had visited the site twice before it was interesting to note the changes since our last visit, including a large car park across the road. After a quick lunch in one of the two cafes on the site, we parted company and each did our own thing. Some walked out to the point while others climbed O’Brien’s Tower and visited the interpretive centre (built into the side of the hill). After a quick stop for gas, we chugged on to Killarney and our accommodation at Ashbrook B&B.

Monday was our day to do the Ring of Kerry. A circular tourist route that covers 179 km, it takes about 10 hours with stops to enjoy the views and experience some of the major attractions. The road has been vastly improved since we first drove it in 2005, and we didn’t experience any problems with buses or lorries on the curves. We followed a guide that I had downloaded from the internet by The Irish Road Trip.

Our first stop was Ladies View and Moll’s Gap – a good spot for a snack but not a particularly super view this particular day. A slow drive (lots of traffic!) through Kenmare gave us a good look at this cute little town with picture-postcard colorful shops and pubs. Then it was on to Derrymane House and Beach. The beautiful white sand and warm sun was an attraction for adventurous bathers. By this time the sun was out and it had begun to warm up. Some of our group made it down to the beach. We decided to stop in Waterville for lunch. Some chose a pizza place while others of us enjoyed sitting in the sun at the little bakery cafe on the main street.

Our driver took us on a diversion from the main route to the Skellig Ring, with its rocky crags, quirkier attractions and UNESCO World Heritage site. Skellig Michael is a rock about 11km from Portmagee and was the site of a Jedi sanctuary in the latest Star Wars movie. Unfortunately, we didn’t arrive early enough or dressed warmly enough to take a boat tour out to the rock, to the disappointment of some in our group. Just across the causeway, at Portmagee, to Valencia Island is The Skellig Experience, a museum which is an excellent interpretive centre for the area. We spent about 30 minutes there. Other places we visited on the island were the lighthouse, the Grotto Slate Quarry (although we weren’t really welcome to be there and quickly turned around), the museum (closed unfortunately) that marked the terminus of the first transatlantic telegraph cable, and a walking path up to Kerry Cliffs at Foilnageragh (llamas included). The roads on the island are quite narrow, with lots of bends and hills. Our driver did an excellent job.

Then it was back to the main road and heading for home. We stopped at Rossbeigh Beach for a pit stop and since it was past dinner time, some of us bought food at the beach cafe to eat in the car. Our driver chose to wait for the Golden Arches back in town.

One day does not do justice to the Ring of Kerry. There is just so much to see and do in this area. I guess that’s why many folk stay for much longer than our itinerary allowed.

Kilkea – We don’t know of anyone who would have Kilkea on their itinerary, but it was on ours because mom had always wanted to stay at a castle and there is a great one in Kilkea. We planned two stops on the way from Killarney to Kilkea. The first at Blarney Castle and the second at Rock of Cashel – both well-known tourist stops.

We spent about two hours at Blarney Castle, each doing our own thing. The ground level of the castle has an excellent museum which describes its history and architectural features including a ‘murder hole.’ George Jr and I hiked to the top of the castle so he could kiss the Blarney Stone. Because I’d done it on our first trip, I was just along to capture his moment. I still don’t think it helps with the gift of the gab. Between the entrance and the lake are about 60 acres of gardens to explore. They include themed gardens, three planned walking trails and a range of sculptures throughout. Lots to see!

The cafe had a limited menu; while three of us were able to find something to satisfy our craving for lunch, Jenn needed a quick stop at a bakery in Cork for a tuna sandwich.

We arrived at the Rock of Cashel around 3 pm just in time to take a guided tour. This iconic site is said to possess the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland. Originally the seat of the kings of Munster, legend has it that St. Patrick himself came to convert King Aengus to Christianity. Our tour included a guided tour of Cormac’s Chapel which contains the only surviving Romanesque frescoes in Ireland. Our guide was excellent and even pointed out for us North Americans the grave site of well-known sports broadcaster Vin Scully, who is buried in an ancient family plot.

Our stop for the next two nights was Kilkea Castle and while we weren’t actually in the castle (our rooms were in the old stable building), we enjoyed visiting the castle for breakfast and afternoon/evening refreshments. After dinner on the first evening, Dad and I sat on the patio outside the bar and met a most interesting local who told us all about the area.

George Jr and I went off the next morning to Birr Castle Demesne. The property has been the home of the Parsons family for over 400 years. Throughout the years, the family has been known worldwide for its interest and inventions in the fields of engineering, astronomy and photography. Part of the castle has been developed into the Ireland Historic Science Centre but the real attraction is The Great Telescope. In the early 1840s, the 3rd Earl of Rosse, designed and built the largest telescope in the world. It attracted star-gazers from all over Europe and beyond and became known as the “Leviathan.” It remained the world’s largest telescope for over 70 years. Dismantled to aid the war effort, the model that exists today is a full-sized replica of the original. In partnership with Trinity College, astronomy continues as one of the main exploits at the castle. The grounds are also well worth the visit, with many walking paths, a delightful garden that features a welcoming waterfall and stream.

After a soup lunch at the castle, George and I returned to Kilkea to continue on with our afternoon plans. Dad and Jenn reported that they had spent the morning walking around the grounds of Kilkea Castle, exploring the golf course and the gardens.

Our afternoon pursuit was to the Irish National Stud Farm, which was probably the most fun day of our trip. We were just three as George Jr decided to stay back at the castle and rest. There were three parts to our visit: a guided tour, a horse-racing experience and the Japanese gardens. Our guide was a passionate college student who told us all the ins-and-outs of breeding race horses. The farm has seven stallions, many of whom generate millions of euros for their owners. Invincible Spirit, great grandson of Northern Dancer, is the star stud!

The racing experience was so much fun! As you go in, you’re provided with an iPad which you use as you explore the exhibit to purchase a horse, engage a trainer, board and train your horse, choose your racing colours and your jockey. Then you go into a video room and race your horse against others. In our case, it was just the three of us. Dad’s horse won, mostly because my arms tired and Jenn couldn’t go fast because she was laughing so hard.

We finished our time at the stud farm, exploring the walking trails through the Japanese garden. Created between 1906 and 1910, the garden was designed to symbolize the Life of Man. Birth, childhood, marriage, parenthood, old age, death and the afterlife are all represented as one chooses easy or difficult paths to follow. The weather contributed to a shady, peaceful walk and time of reflection.

Dinner that night was at Kilkea Castle looking out over the 18th tee. After a long day, we turned in early preparing to leave on the last leg of our trip.

Dublin – Thursday morning, after a full breakfast, we packed the car ready for Dublin via Waterford. Waterford, of course, is the home to Waterford Crystal and since our kids will inherit our crystal, I thought it important that they see how it is made. We arrived a little early for our 11 am tour and spent the time musing through the showroom. In addition to the pieces they have for sale, a corner of the showroom is maintained as a museum of special pieces that have been made for sporting events, awards, etc. It was fun to recognize, for instance, the cups presented to the Solheim Cup and the PGA Honda Classic winners. Some of the decorative pieces are absolutely stunning.

The tour began with a short presentation on the history of Waterford Crystal and its current ownership. Then it moved to the shop floor where we went through each of the steps in making crystal pieces: moulding room, blowing department, quality inspection, hand-marking, cutting department, sculpting and engraving. The process requires skilled craftsmanship and features detailed inspections each step along the way. Pieces that don’t meet their strict standards are melted down and the materials are reused.

After the tour, we ate an excellent lunch at the little cafe on site. We purchased a small vase for our neighbour, Jess, who was looking after our house for us.

Then it was back to the car one last time and off to Dublin. We decided to drive to our hotel and drop all our bags and then Mom and George Jr took the car back to the airport. We also took a bag of hiking boots, poles, etc. that wouldn’t be needed in Dublin with us and checked them at the airport. The return trip from the airport was quite easy on the Dublin Express. Even though it was rush hour we made the trip in just 45 minutes. While we were away, Jenn and Dad went for an extended walk through the Temple Bar area and had dinner at a restaurant recommended by one of Jenn’s friends. Mom and George had dinner at a cute little Thai restaurant just down the street from the hotel. Our hotel, by the way, was the Holiday Inn on O’Connell Street, which was centrally located and very convenient for tourists. There’s really no need for a car in Dublin.

Friday morning, the kids had tickets to the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College. Unfortunately for them, the library was under redevelopment and all the books had been removed but their photos still captured the beauty of the old library dating back to 1732. While they were there, Dad and I caught the Hop On, Hop Off and did a round trip to get our bearings. We met the kids at lunch time and the guys went in one direction and the ladies another.

The guys were interested in exploring the transit system in Dublin and thus took the commuter train out to Dun Laoghaire. This is an historic suburban coastal town – home to the first suburban railway, the first purpose-built yacht club, and the world’s largest asylum harbour. Since it was such a lovely day, people were swimming and enjoying the fine summer weather. There are two piers. The East Pier takes you past the historical sundial, the bandstand, the battery and the lighthouse at the end. The walk is about 2.5 km return. The lighthouse features a small museum in honor of James Joyce, who spent some time in the area. The West Pier is unpaved and slightly longer but provides for a better view of the harbour and the boats in the Marina.

The gals went to Grafton Street to check out the shops and do a little shopping. I returned to the hotel early on the bus while Jenn continued with a music tour of Dublin. She had a great time ending up at a recording studio where she tried out her performance skills.

Dinner that evening was at Flanagans and then we all went to check out the Barbie movie. Both kids had seen it before but were quite keen to see it as a family. What fun!

Our last day in Dublin was “explore your own interests.” Mom and George Jr went to the EPIC museum while Dad and Jenn explored the Archaeology Museum. EPIC is a museum located in an historic building on Custom House Quay where it was used to store tobacco, tea and spirits. It overlooks the River Liffey, which was the departure point for so many people who fled the country during The Famine. It’s a very fitting location for Ireland’s emigration museum. Beautifully designed and entirely interactive, the displays tell the story of over 300 people who became scientists, politicians, poets, artists and even outlaws all over the world. The local joke is that the English discovered the world, while the Irish populated it! It was a fascinating, informative morning.

Jenn and Dad lucked in when they arrived at the Archaeology Museum as a tour was to begin shortly. The docent was a young man who was very knowledgeable and provided a very interesting tour. At the end of the tour, they realized that he was going to lead another in about an hour. They separated and explored different parts of the museum and then met again for the second tour. It was fascinating to go to a museum and see some of the artifacts from sites that we had visited. Also of interest was a diorama of a village that explained what life was like in Viking Ireland, a precursor to next year’s trip.

We agreed that we would reconnect at Phoenix Park after lunch. This is one of the largest enclosed public parks in any capital city in Europe and has a long history dating back to the eighteenth century. Included in the park are zoological gardens, flower gardens, a biodiversity information centre, a cafe and tea rooms, walking and cycling trails, as well as many sporting venues. Jenn went off to check out the polo grounds, while George and mom perused the flower gardens and checked out one of the concession stands for a cold drink. Dad sat on a park bench and chatted with other visitors to the park. It was a warm day and we were all beginning to flag towards the end.

Dinner for our last night was at Teddy’s Bar & Brasserie, directly across from the hotel. The food was good and the service was excellent. Then it was back to the hotel for final packing and an early morning bus to the airport. Fortunately, the bus stop was just a short walk from the hotel but 6:20 am was early!

After picking up our stored luggage and checking in, we had a wee breakfast before bidding adieu to George Jr who was catching a later flight to the continent. Dad, Jenn and I flew home without incident until it came time to meet our chauffeur, my sister Barbara, at the airport. Because we had forgotten to take our golf clubs out of the trunk of our car, there was no way we could get all our luggage and George’s bike in the car. Dad ended up taking a separate cab with the bike.

We also brought a little something extra home with us! Jenn and I both came down with COVID the next day. Despite having sat between us on the plane, Dad did not seem to get it … but then maybe he and George had a mild case of it in Ireland? We will never know.