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Another month in the desert

07 Thursday Jun 2018

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As we come to the close of another month in the desert, it is with mixed feelings that we prepare to return home. We look forward to getting back to our regular routine but will miss the freedom and flexibility of fewer responsibilities down here. The weather has been mixed this year: the first week in the 80s, the second week in the 70s and the last two weeks in the 60s. There was no rain.

Our home this year was a two-bedroom bungalow just off the Pines to Palms Highway. We had a great view of the desert at the back of the house and a view of the valley from the front. We still haven’t quite found our preferred home yet. This one lacked a patio, a barbecue and had some internal idiosyncrasies that were tolerable for one month but might be annoying if we stayed longer. The location was ideal and we continue to look around the area for something a bit better.

I was quite busy with Foundation work as we were in the midst of selling the Lynde Creek property during our first two weeks here. The time difference worked in our favour though as I was able to deal with a multitude of emails early morning and then again late afternoon and evening. This meant that we had most of the day to ourselves.

We played golf at Tahquiz with two guys who thought they were on their way to the PGA Tour; with a French Canadian couple at Woodhaven, where she shot a hole-in-one on the 6th hole; with a sports hall of famer from Winnipeg and his wife at La Quinta; and then with George at Woodhaven. In between we played tennis four times at the public courts. Happily, Nancy experienced no discomfort. We visited the heated pool a number of times although more at the beginning of the month when the weather was more cooperative.

During Modernism Week, we did a walking tour of El Rancho Vista Estates, a small enclave of mid-century homes that are gradually being refurbished and modernized without sacrificing the original unique designs. It was quite interesting to tour inside the homes and see how spacious they are, even though they look quite small from the outside. Of course, storage and laundry facilities are all accessible from outside given the weather.

We attended two concerts: a noon-hour organ concert at St Margaret’s, which was part of their lenten concert series, and Cameron Carpenter, at the McCallum Theatre. He travels with his own digital organ and played a variety of organ music, including Bach, Vierne, Schumann and his own improvisations. He spoke at some length about his theory on the organ and its place in culture – quite interesting.

During week three George Jr came to visit, biking from Santa Ana to Palm Desert, some 133 km. I followed him on my iPhone, which helped to keep the angst at bay. Aside from the boring sightseeing trip around Palm Desert, we enjoyed an afternoon in Palm Springs touring the wind turbine farm and taking in the street fair in the evening, a day at Joshua Tree and Salvation Mountain, and a day of golf. It was fun having him with us for five days before he drove back to LA by car to visit a friend and return home. In between all this activity, we watched the NBC coverage of the Winter Olympics.

We don’t know too many people here but we did make a point of meeting up with the Porters from Uxbridge again this year. They’re actually friends of Ron and Heather Hunter, George’s cousin, but we enjoy catching up with them down here.

During the month we made an effort to dine at our favourite restaurants: Spencers, Cafe des Beaux Artes, Pacifica, Olive Garden, Daily Grill, Cafe Italia, and Woodhaven GCC. For George’s birthday, we celebrated with the best steak dinner either of us have had in many years, at the Cliff House. A new establishment made its way onto our favourites list this year: Wilma & Frieda is a new breakfast/lunch spot on El Paseo. It is so popular the wait is regularly up to an hour long. Fortunately, they’ll text you when your table is ready so we just go off and do something else while waiting. We’re looking forward to French Toast before leaving tomorrow!

We enjoyed two Sundays at Community Presbyterian – one a hymn festival and the other a communion service. When George was here we attended the contemporary service at Hope Lutheran.

We aren’t sure we’ll be here next year since we’re planning a South American cruise in early February 2019. It’s quite possible that the next time we visit the desert we’ll be able to stay for 6 to 8 weeks, which would be wonderful!

Las Vegas

05 Monday Feb 2018

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Jan 30th – Feb 2nd – Our winter holiday this year began in Las Vegas. It was a bit of a delayed start since our plane experienced mechanical difficulty and we had to return to the gate. Two hours later we finally lifted off. Because of the delay, food was in short supply and only snacks were available by the time they reached our row. Fortunately, we had brought some snacks so didn’t really have a problem.

Our purpose for going to Las Vegas, was twofold: we had been told that the flight and car rental are cheaper in Nevada than in Palm Springs, and we were offered a free three-night stay compliments of Holiday Inn Club Vacations.

We were housed at the Stratosphere – a large hotel and casino at the north end of the strip. Since we were quite tired by the time we checked in, we just ate at the restaurant in the hotel and then retired early.

Tower at the Hotel Stratosphere – people jump from the top!

On Wednesday morning, Nancy had a conference call, after which we attended the obligatory two-hour Vacation Club presentation and then in the evening we went to see the musical Las Vegas! which was very good. It told the story of entertainment through the years in Las Vegas including the Rat Pack, Elvis Presley, Michael Jackson, Petula Clark and many others.

He played Sinatra and Elvis. She played Diana Ross and Petula Clark.

On Thursday morning we spent time in the room, as George had a conference call, and then we walked “the strip”. At least one of us was completely exhausted after what must have been at least 15K steps! We both slept well on Thursday night.

Friday morning we struck off early on our way to Palm Desert. It was about a 4.5 hour trip and we arrived while it was still daylight. Our house was open when we arrived as there was a bit of a plumbing problem that needed to be fixed. After unpacking, we went for dinner, at Don Diago’s, and then did a major grocery shop.

Our house is small and cozy but I think it will be quite comfortable for the next month.

Back to Africa

12 Sunday Nov 2017

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After returning from a visit to a friend in Malawi, Africa, our son expressed an interest in returning with his dad to see the places where George taught in the 1970s with CUSO. This blog is the story of their trip. It’s taken a few months to get this up on the blog…but such is the busy life we lead.

March 4-5 – George and I arrived at Pearson a little after 7am for our flight which was scheduled to depart around 10am. It seemed slightly strange to be taking an overseas trip that left in the morning. We’re more used to the evening departure.

Our first decision was what to do with our walking sticks since we weren’t sure we would be able to get them through security. Fortunately, we were able to wedge them diagonally into my checked luggage.

My last purchase on Canadian soil was 10 bottles of maple syrup – mementos of Canada for our overseas friends. We had tried to purchase them prior to arriving at the airport but weren’t able to find the little bottles. Must remember to pick some up at the Mennonite farm in St Jacobs next time we go. Price will be significantly less.

Our flight was on Ethiopian Airlines, starting in Toronto and ending in Johannesburg with a layover in Addis Ababa. The first segment was full with people of all races and garb on board. I ended up chatting with a white woman originally from Nelspruit, South Africa. Her husband, one of her daughters, and she had emigrated to Saskatoon about 15 months earlier. But the pull of extended family was just too strong – they were returning to South Africa.

After a few hours in the Addis airport, we continued on with the second segment. This flight was not nearly as full. I remember one unusual practice – a spraying of the overhead luggage shortly after take-off – not sure what that was all about.

When we arrived in Johannesburg, early afternoon, George got our two phones set up for use in South Africa. Next, he expedited the car rental process and avoided a long lineup by taking advantage of his Avis Preferred status. We had a Toyota Corolla for the next 12 days. Meanwhile, I got 2,000 Rand out of the bank. It was just enough to last us to the end of our stay in South Africa.

We drove up to Pretoria and found our Holiday Inn Express in the Sunnypark area. The parking was six storeys up, and coincided with the level of the hotel reception area. We discovered later that this level also opened through a secure entrance to a level in the Sunnypark Shopping Centre, a quite nice mall.

We decided to go out to the neighbourhood for supper and a short walkabout. Our first meal was at McDonald’s. The neighbourhood was a bit rough. Although the sidewalks had been prettified, they had deteriorated significantly. Everyone we encountered on the street was black, but we didn’t have the sense that we were unwelcome in the area. Just before sundown, we returned to our room and bedded down for the night.

March 6 – Today was our first full day in Africa. On our exit from Pretoria, we managed to make a wrong turn, and spent about 45 minutes making up for it. African taxis are a very important means of travel, especially for workers. We saw that over and over again in every country we visited. They also are driven by brazen drivers.

We enjoyed our drive through the Western Transvaal on our way to Botswana. We saw some circular farms – marked by irrigation systems fed by a central well. As time went by, the scenery became hillier and drier.

Art show by the roadside

People serving at land border outposts are a special breed. Life moves slowly there. Eventually, we made it through Martin’s Drift. As we crossed into Botswana, we noticed the rushing waters of the Limpopo. This area of Botswana has had a good rainy season.

We drove through Palapye and Serowe to the Khama Rhino Camp. Just after climbing aboard our tour vehicle (we were the only clients this afternoon), the sky parted and we were completely soaked. Despite the rain, we got up close and personal with a group of rhinos, checking out their interactions for about half an hour. Interestingly, members of the Botswana military were at the Rhino Camp, deterring poachers.

We made it back to the Majestic Five Hotel in Palapye a little later than planned, but we were able to put ourselves together in time to greet two of my former Moeng students, Leka and Golekanye. After an hour or so chatting in the hotel lobby, vainly waiting for a third student, we retired to the dining room and enjoyed a lovely buffet. Leka described how she became a dietitian; her original intention was to become a doctor, but her cohort of students was steered into different professions. Though she is now divorced, she also shared experiences as the wife of a diplomat, and as the mother of three boys. Golekanye worked at power plants, and is now late in his career at a local mill.

It was a remarkable evening, catching up on over 40 years of life.

Two former Moeng students

March 7 – The next day was no less full. We retraced some of yesterday’s travel on our way to Moeng College, where I taught for 14 months in 1972-73.

Moeng gates (2)

New entrance to Moeng College courtesy of Jim Jagow

Unlike when I was there last, the road to Moeng is completely paved. There is a gate at the perimeter of the school. My first impression was that the school was much bigger than I remembered it – there were lots of new buildings – a real maze.

We were directed to School Head’s office. Abram Thapedi is a serious school administrator who has been at the school for about four years. His office is in the same location as when I was there. Moeng College now has about 1300 Form Four and Form Five students. There are 34 classes and 29 different subjects being taught. All of the teachers are from Botswana. Because of a problem in one of the boys’ dormitories, the number of girls is slightly larger.

As we walked about the school buildings, there were memories of bygone days – Form 1C, the Staff Room, the house that was home for 14 months, the dining hall, the tennis courts. Not everything has survived – the farm and garden, and store have made way for new buildings.

Since last year’s results were in the process of being reviewed by the staff, Mr. Thapedi described his way of measuring the quality of his staff’s work. Prior to his arrival, the former school head had been on study leave, and an interim head had not been selected. Needless to say, the students’ results suffered. During the last four years, the quality of students in the intake has dramatically worsened. In the most recent year, there were no incoming students with an A average. I seem to recall that the school’s results had also worsened, but not as badly, such that there actually was a growing improvement in the Form Five results relative to the incoming Form Three results.

Mr. Thapedi introduced us to Flora, the maid at the School Head’s house where three of the staff now reside. He needs a smaller residence since his wife and family do not reside at the school. Flora told us that Minnie, my maid from 1973, has retired and is living in Ratholo. I asked her to let Minnie know that I was asking for her.

As we walked by my old house, he shared the nickname for the neighbourhood – the Snake Park. That brought back memories of a late night encounter with a snake on the door step many years ago.

We appreciated Mr. Thapedi’s warm welcome and his generosity in arranging the tour for us.

My old house

Our next stop was Gaborone. We stayed at the Cresta President Hotel overlooking the Main Mall. There we met two other former Moeng students. Because we had not bought a Sim card for the I-Phone, we ended up communicating by email. Eventually, we found each other for a meal at Cappuccino’s Airport Junction Mall.

Ben has had a varied career as a geologist and consultant since we last met in Toronto in the early 1980’s. Because of the nature of the geologist’s life, he lost our contact information. He was really glad to make contact again. Joe was the Director of Botswana Game and Wildlife, but has now taken on a Security role at the Jwaneng Diamond Mine. We had a wide-ranging conversation over dinner. Again, a third student who was a possible attendee didn’t make it due to a death in the family.

In the process of arranging these two get-togethers, I discovered that another former student, Tuduetso, is Joe’s aunt. She and I will communicate by email once I return to Canada.

March 8 – This day is a long day, too, for we are planning to drive from Gaborone to Ladysmith in Natal Province. We were off early. The border crossing at Tlokweng Gate is probably the busiest one between Botswana and South Africa. Even so, we weren’t delayed very long.

Our big event for the day was a tour of the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site at Maropeng. Maropeng means “returning to the place of origin” in Setswana, the main indigenous language in this area of South Africa. A UNESCO World Heritage Site covering some 47,000 acres, the science centre-like display focuses on humankind and how we developed with a special focus on the African connection.

Entrance to Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Sight

Also on the site are the Sterkfontein Caves home to the oldest and most continuous paleaontological dig in the world and home to finds that date back millions of years. We were fortunate that our tour group was a fraction of the size of the group before us.

Sterkfontein Caves

Driving around Johannesburg at rush hour was a tad exciting because of our unfamiliarity with the highways, but we didn’t make any miscues. Even so, we didn’t arrive at the Royal Hotel in Ladysmith until well after dark.

One wrinkle that we haven’t seen in Canada is the practice of the police to nab speeders who drive between two spots in the road in a time period shorter than the time period needed to travel that distance at the speed limit.

March 9-10 – Today we set off bright and early for the Royal Natal National Park which forms part of the Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. The main features of the park are the Drakensberg Amphitheatre, a rock wall 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) long by up to 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) high, Mon-Aux-Sources peak where the Orange and Tugela rivers have their source, and the 948-metre (3,110 ft) Tugela Falls, the world’s second-highest waterfall. We enjoyed a slightly strenuous walk through the park, eventually sighting the Ampitheatre in the distance. On our return journey, we passed about 20 people going in the opposite direction.

After stopping for a tour with a local guide to see rock art, we headed back to the car. About two minutes before we arrived back at the parking lot, the deluge began. One can only guess how the other walkers on the Ampitheatre route fared.

Drakensberg Amphitheatre

Rock Art

Of course, our excitement wasn’t over. We still had to drive over roads that are prone to washouts when a torrential downpour occurs. Eventually we drove out of the worst of the storm, but we had a few exciting moments.

As we drove on to Durban, we continued to experience inclement weather. Finally, we arrived at the home of Brian and Linda Downie, two members of the extended family on my mother’s side through marriage. Brian is a cousin of my cousin, Paul Downie. Paul and I are related through our mothers being sisters. Brian and Paul are cousins through fathers being brothers. Brian and Linda have travelled to Canada, and met various Downie cousins. They told stories and shared pictures of their visit to southern Ontario. At least one relative from the Canadian Downie clan has visited them – Maureen and Vince Brown.

We showed them the Hunter family website and how the Downies and Bells appear there. They were quite interested in the pictures from Aunt Kathleen’s Celebration of Life event at the Old Mill. They were saddened to learn of recent deaths in the Downie family, cousins Shelagh and Edgar. We spent time describing recent news about Gord Downie’s health and The Tragically Hip’s national tour, and Gord’s involvement in The Secret Path initiative.

Brian and Linda live in Mount Edgecombe Country Club, about 20 km north of Durban. They have lived in the Durban area since arriving in South Africa over 40 years ago. They moved to Mt. Edgecombe after their two girls moved out, one to Auckland, and the other to Johannesburg. It is a beautiful home which backs out onto a pond populated by water birds.

We enjoyed a home cooked meal with them on Thursday night and a trip to the boardwalk in downtown Durban on Friday. George and Brian went for a one-hour bike ride, while Linda and I walked the boardwalk. All four of us found it a bit breezy. We compared notes later at a restaurant on the beach. Brian then took us for a drive around town. He mentioned how the African traders have set up shop on the sidewalks of downtown outside more formal businesses. He said that Cape Town was more successful in limiting this activity. Every city is different.

After a bit of down time, we had some pre-dinner drinks at a hotel overlooking the ocean, then dinner at a favourite restaurant. I think Linda was surprised at how noisy the restaurant was. It has a different clientele at lunch time compared to a Friday night. Nevertheless, a good time was had by all.

Brian is trained as a civil engineer, and showed us some of the interchanges he has worked on. In his semi-retirement, he is doing more mentoring, and has taken up writing for a local newspaper.

Downie cousins

Peaceful setting

March 11 – After lots of discussion and input from Brian, we decided to drive from Durban to Cape Town through Umtata and Port Elizabeth, and to accomplish the travel over three days. We would end up in the Cape Town area on Monday evening. Up to this point, all of our accommodation was arranged before we left Canada. From here on, we agreed that George would find the accommodation on the internet based on our progress that day. So we left Brian and Linda early on Saturday morning.

For the first 100 km or so south of Durban, the roads were excellent and the neighbourhoods were quite pretty. Then after passing Port Shepstone, it was clear that we were in a different society – more agricultural and poorer. The scenery was exquisite. The travel was slower because of potholes and animals (mainly cattle and goats). There was more construction, too.

Gated community south of Durban

Rural African community

On Saturday night, we spent the night at Park Place Boutique Guesthouse in East London. Here, we shared a conversation with a fellow traveller, Edward, a Scot, who had worked quite extensively in Africa.

March 12 – On Sunday morning, we drove around East London. At one point, on a coastal road, we came across a Baptist Church whose members were just coming out of the church onto the street as we passed.

We took the long way out of town, seeing fishermen preparing at the seashore. We also came to the end of a rail line near the ocean, trying to guess whether the termination was planned or the result of a washout caused by a big storm. We also mistakenly found ourselves on a car race track. Being a Sunday morning, there wasn’t too much going on, though we did see some go-carts whizzing around in the distance.

Strange end to a rail line

Fishing on the Indian Ocean coast

This was the day when gas stations or the lack of them caused us to go back over some ground (as in East London) or to divert (as in Kareedouw). In each case, we were unsure that we had enough gas to make it to the next station. Better safe than sorry.

We had hoped to make it to George, then Plettenberg Bay, but with the diversion for gas, opted to stay at Tsitsikamma Spa and Lodge. It was very rustic, and was just fine for two tired travellers.

March 13 – Even though we had fallen a bit behind in our schedule, we checked out a really interesting area, Storms River Mouth in Tsitsikamma National Park, down by the seacoast. We hiked through a pristine forest area, ending up at a suspension bridge over a river mouth. I would guess that this is a road less travelled by most visitors to South Africa. There were surfers and kayakers in abundance.

Wildlife

I crossed this!

Kayakers

We enjoyed a nice lunch in Mossel’s Bay down by the sea. Though there were lots of birds in the area, they were very well behaved.

From here, we put the foot to the gas, and travelled through George. No, we didn’t stop at the George Hotel for nostalgic reasons. Nancy and I had stayed here on our trip along this route in 1979. Had we stayed at the George Hotel this time, my instructions were to purchase a “George” towel from the George Hotel!

At the Downies’ suggestion, we turned north at Swellendam to meet Highway 1 at Worcester. The scenery was absolutely fantastic, as we made our way towards Cape Town. There were vineyards as far as the eye could see. And there was an exceedingly long tunnel.

Knowing that our plan was to go to the Cape on Tuesday, George found Simon’s Town Guest House up on a hill in Simon’s Town. Our hostess was Australian, but had married a South African. They had built this guest house over the last ten years. It had a lovely rock garden and patio. But most critically, it had a lovely view of Simon’s Town harbour.

March 14 – On our way to the Cape, we stopped at Boulders Beach. Here George checked out the penguins. Or more precisely, the penguins checked out George’s 360 degree camera.

We arrived at Cape Point in mid-morning and set out on the hike to Cape of Good Hope, about half a mile to the west. Along the way were some beautiful sights looking over the cliffs. There were a couple of uncomfortable moments, too, as the path disappeared from time to time. Then we returned to Cape Point and took the funicular up to the summit. Up there, the baboons were a bit of a pest. Of course, the humans sometimes egged them on.

Cape of Good Hope from Cape Point

On the path from Cape of Good Hope looking back to Cape Point

On our return trip from Cape Point to Cape Town, we took the Atlantic Ocean side. Each village going up the coast provided a different view … Kommetjie, Chapman’s Point, Hout Bay, Llandudno, Camps Bay, and Sea Point.

George checked out the various suggestions that the Downies gave us for accommodation. He ultimately decided on Olaf’s in Sea Point. We stayed here three nights. It offered us easy access to Cape Town. In Sea Point, parking each night was an adventure. At least one night, we ended up parking four streets away.

March 15 – We had intended to go to Robben Island today, but found that the first ticket available was Thursday at 3 p.m. No problem. At least we had two tickets for Thursday.

We drove up to the Table Mountain parking area, surveyed the situation there and decided to take the On-Off Bus Tour of Cape Town. We started and ended the tour at Table Mountain, which ended up being a good decision, although it forced us to shorten an intriguing tour at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. Viewing this garden from the Boomslang (the new steel and timber canopy walkway) was a highlight.

Natural landscaping in the Gardens

A unique view of the gardens from the catwalk

We arrived back at Table Mountain in time to take the cable car up just as the sun was setting. Spectacular!

Cape Town from Table Mountain

March 16 – This was a quiet day other than the trip to Robben Island.

We drove together to the beach at Sea Point. George rented a bike there to ride down to the Dock area of Cape Town. After a short walk up and down the boardwalk, I drove downtown. We met at Nobel Square where lifesize statues of Mandela, de Klerk, Luthuli and Tuti are situated. We enjoyed a short walk in the area before having lunch at a Portuguese restaurant. Other nationalities were represented in the restaurants of the area, including Belgian and Thai.

Before taking the ferry over to Robben Island, I spent some time checking out the display area in the building adjoining the ferry dock. Then we were off, and within about 15 or 20 minutes we were on the island.

On the island, the tour is pretty standard with stops at different buildings. The island has been used for different purposes over the years – mainly for political prisoners and lepers. We saw the lime quarry where the ANC prisoners worked, and we walked through the prison block, and viewed the actual cell where Mandela lived for 18 years. Much of the prison portion of the tour was led by a former political prisoner who was incarcerated at Robben Island for about six years. He was there after Mandela was transferred to a facility on the mainland. It is very powerful to have an ex-inmate lead the tour. Cape Town and Table Mountain are tantalizingly close. Over the years, only one or two have successfully swum from Robben Island to the mainland.

Pile of rocks put there in 1994 by Mandela and other prisoners

Mandela’s cell

We then returned to Sea Point for our last night. Each night in Sea Point, we ate at a different restaurant, one night at the Raj in Camp’s Bay, then at Mykonos Taverna, then at Jerry’s Burger Bar. We had hoped to dine at Hussan’s Grill, which was recommended by Brian and Linda, but found that one needed to make a reservation. Because of our busy schedule, that was difficult to do. Hussan’s will have to wait for a future trip.

March 17 – Today was a travel day. That meant that we had to pack for our next set of air flights. This is a bit more involved than the regular day-to-day packing from one hotel to the next.

Before going to the airport, we decided to tour a number of lesser sites in Cape Town. The first spot was the Castle of Good Hope. The Castle was constructed between 1666 and 1679. We arrived in time for the key ceremony, the firing of the signal cannon, and an hour-long guided tour of the facility.

The second spot was the Company’s Garden. We had read that the Planetarium there had a special show on the Southern Night Sky. When we arrived, we found that they were closed for renovations. Undaunted, we took in an exhibit of African history and culture in southern Africa at the adjoining museum instead. Then we walked through the Company’s Garden area including brief stops at the Parliament Building and the Anglican Cathedral. Important anti-apartheid demonstrations occurred in this precinct in the 1980’s and 1990’s.

After a brief hassle with an aggressive local vendor in the park, we took our leave of Cape Town.

We filled the gas tank at the airport, returned our faithful Corolla, and began the last leg of our trip – from Cape Town through the Addis Ababa airport to Entebbe.

March 18 – We arrived at Entebbe around noon. Initially, confusion abounded. The staff ran out of Immigration Forms. That certainly was a new experience for me. After a short time, new stacks of forms appeared and all quickly returned to normal.

Our travel companion and guide, Brian, met me outside the terminal, while George was getting his phone fixed for use in Uganda. Then the three of us headed up the busy Entebbe to Kampala road. An expressway is almost finished. One slow truck can affect traffic on the existing two-lane road.

New highway will speed up the trip into Kampala

Lots of familiar sights jumped out at me as we drove along. There were some new ones too. My initial impression is that this stretch of road is a lot busier than it used to be.

We arrived at Makerere Guest House to discover that what I had arranged – one room with two single beds – was not available. Another larger group, a university dance group from Norway, had taken up all rooms of this category. We ended up with two single rooms for the same price. It left me with a bit of a sour taste that an email confirmation was not secure and freed me up to consider, with Brian, what we might do instead of staying close to Kampala. Of course, the options had to be reasonable in cost and available on short notice.

In the end, we decided that we would try to arrange a two-night visit to Murchison Falls National Park in the north-west part of Uganda.

Shortly after Brian left, Marion Sonko arrived for a short visit. Marion is the widow of a former teaching colleague at the Aga Khan Secondary School. Nancy and I stayed with them in 1979 and corresponded frequently after our return home. Of course, she knew George Jr from our correspondence (up until the early 1990’s), but it was the first time she had met him. Later her daughter-in-law, Jane, and grandchildren, Daniel and Timothy, joined us.

After our guests left, George and I had dinner at the Guest House and retired for the night. It had been an exhausting day.

March 19 – On the way to Makerere the previous day, Brian had driven us by Kampala Baptist Church and the Aga Khan Secondary School. We noticed that the road leading from Makerere to both places was under construction, and with rain would be a sodden mess.

We arranged for a ride to the church in time for the 11 a.m. service. There was a pretty good turnout. Since I had written in advance to prepare them for my visit, they were open for me to bring greetings as an attendee from the 1970’s and as a fellow Baptist from Canada. The message was on the Holy Spirit and the senior pastor responded to questions at the end of the sermon.

After church, Brian took us for a short tour of downtown Kampala, then delivered us to Marion’s home for lunch and a visit. Of course, a Sonko lunch is a feast. We enjoyed salads, meats, rice, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash and matoke with groundnut sauce. Before and after lunch, we had a variety of fruits including mango, watermelon and pineapple. Over the course of the afternoon, various neighbours helped serve some of the dishes that they had prepared. Marion’s two surviving daughters, Dumalie and Salome, and one son currently in Uganda, Andrew, joined us along with Jane. Her two boys ended up playing soccer with George for a while.

Independence Monument in downtown Kampala

Marion, daughters Dumalie and Salome, son Andrew and grandchildren

Marion with daughter Jane and grandchildren

Marion has a nursery school on her premises. My sense is that at age 79, she is living a very busy life.

Over the two days with Marion, we showed her and her family the pictures of the Aga Khan staff, presented her with some Canadian maple syrup, two issues of a black girls magazine from Toronto, and the Measha Breuggegosman Spirituals CD. She gave us some Mango Juice, mini-bananas, and ground nuts for our travels. We took lots of photos, too.

Brian took us to a cultural show at Ndere Cultural Centre for the evening. The musicianship and the dancing was remarkable.

Cultural show – dancing with china bowls on one’s head!

March 20 – Today, we visited Aga Khan High School for about an hour and a half. Enoch, another of Marion’s sons, had arranged this visit with one of the staff, Pauline. We began with a visit with Fred, the African CEO for the Aga Khan organization in Uganda. Fred described the current set-up of the school. In the former Secondary School, the International Program is housed with classes running from Nursery School to Form VI. In the former Primary School, the National Program is housed with classes running the same range. Across the street is a building with one floor housing the Aga Khan University, and the lower floor housing a younger Nursery School. There may be some changes in the future involving the old Secondary School building in Kololo.

Next we had a brief meeting with the School Head, Reeshma Charania. Subsequently, she took us on a short tour of the school, showing us my old home room, the Science labs, the Art room and the school grounds behind the school. I believe there has been a modest amount of extension since I was there. But the school with the open central courtyard remains.

Fred then took us for a short walk across the road to the Aga Khan flats. The unit I lived in was empty and ironically Fred had previously lived there too. George took a photo of Fred and me, then a 360 in the garden. The nursery school has appropriated some of the garden. We then returned to the other side of the road and reconnected with our guide, Brian.

Brian then whisked us up to Murchison Falls National Park. The last hour or so, from Masindi on, was on muram (compacted mud road). We arrived just in time to get unpacked in our Red Chili Rest Camp cabin, then have dinner. The central building was combination admin and restaurant. Inside the building was the kitchen. Next to it, covered but outside was the eating area. Further was the campfire with seats and benches adjacent to the eating area. Before we went to the campfire for conversation, we ordered our breakfast for quick takeaway the next day. The three of us enjoyed the campfire, and shared some campfire stories before retiring for the night.

Before turning in for the night, we were warned that nighttime trips to the washroom should be lighted by flashlight as hippos and warthogs sometimes visit.

March 21 – We arose bright and early, collected our breakfast bags (mine was 2 beef samosas, a banana muffin and a slice of watermelon), and drove off to the ferry to take us across the Victoria Nile to the northern section of the park, where the animals are more numerous.

We met our guide for the morning, Robert. Brian and I sat in the front, and George and Robert sat in the rear. George had the option to stand up through the vehicle roof to take pictures.

We saw a multitude of animals – female lions, buffalo, elephants, warthogs, various antelope, baboons, giraffes, jackals, and a variety of birds and small animals. The highlight was to see a trio of female lions hunt and kill a young oribi. One lion took the lead and after pawing the captured kid for a few moments, finally put it out of its misery. We didn’t stick around to watch how dinner was eventually divided, but my guess is that the lead lion was satisfied before the others had their turn. Next, we headed up to the Albert Nile to see the hippos and the crocodiles.

After we parted with Robert, Brian took us to Paraa Safari Lodge for a buffet lunch. We enjoyed seeing how the other half live. For a Double Room, the current Bed and Breakfast is $318US. The Queen’s Cottage, built for Queen Elizabeth, costs $839US.

In the afternoon, we took a river cruise up the Victoria Nile to Murchison Falls. It was two hours up, and one hour back. We spent most of the time in the lower deck, but there was lots to see – crocodiles and hippos in the river, and a variety of animals on the nearby savannah. We saw holes in the cliffs where bee-eaters reside.

Some of the guests disembarked at a dock near the falls to hike up to the ‘Top of the Falls.’ Since we had planned to do that on Wednesday on our exit from the park, we stayed on the launch and enjoyed the return trip.

George with our most excellent guide – Brian Twesiime

We saw an elephant in what appeared to be a precarious location near the river. Brian thought that he would figure out how to extricate himself. In any case, he was contentedly munching away as we passed.

At the end of our cruise, we got to wait for an hour until the ferry arrived from the other side of the river. I struck up a conversation with the cashier, Harriet, who lived nearby. Her husband lives in Arua with their two children. She was expecting her third. She was interested in Canada, day care, health care, etc. Brian told me that he expected to get a better deal from her on his next visit. I said that I hoped that I had done my part.

We watched kingfishers practicing their dives for fish in the river. It really is amazing to see them hover, then swoop down.

Brian almost ended up with a baboon in his vehicle. While chatting with someone else in the clearing, he had left the driver window of his vehicle open. The baboon likely smelled the remnants of Marion’s bananas. Brian raced back just in time to scare off the intruder. This wasn’t the end of the wildlife excitement for the day, as a family of warthogs walked between the dinner tables and the campfire benches just around dinner time at Red Chilis.

We retired to our cabin to pack up before the generator (and the lights) went off at 10 p.m.

March 22 – We arose early for this our last day, and managed to leave Red Chili around 7 a.m. with our bagged breakfast.

We headed off to the Top of the Falls parking area. Finding no guide on duty at this meeting area, we took off on our own, climbed to a lookout for pictures, and then down to the area just above the falls. Murchison Falls comprises two waterfalls around a central island. We were able to closely approach the tighter waterfall – interestingly, not the one viewed from the launch we were on yesterday. We continued on the circular path back to the parking area and continued on our trip back to Entebbe. Just before leaving the park, we stopped to allow a giant lizard to cross our path.

The return trip to Masindi and Kampala was without incident. We went a little further into Kampala than we needed to in order to rendezvous with Salome who had a DVD for George. We all said quick good-byes as she returned to her school classroom, and we continued on to Entebbe. It struck me that the rendezvous process involving contacts between Brian and Salome would simply not have been possible years ago, but now with the help of mobile phones and texting, is relatively easy.

We had two quick stops before going to the airport. First, I picked up some Uganda Waragi, a Ugandan gin at a supermarket. Second, at George’s suggestion, we had a final meal. Brian picked a lovely locale overlooking Lake Victoria, Faze-3. While we were awaiting the meal, Marion phoned to thank us for coming, and to wish us a safe trip home. I’m not sure our pictures on Brian’s camera will really do justice to the view.

We did a final accounting with Brian, divvied up our remaining Ugandan funds between a tip for him and a contribution to Marion’s school, and bid farewell.

At the airport, we managed to separate a wheel from my piece of luggage just prior to security. Then after security, George met a buddy from Pioneer Camp, David Arnold. David was in Jinja with church friends to visit a couple exploring street ministry possibilities. While he was chatting with David, I met an Indian fellow who now lives in Mississauga. He owns a gas station and grocery store in Lugazi. Business there is so-so, he said. He comes to Uganda twice a year to go over the books with his accountant.

There were computer glitches that slowed down sign-in at Ethiopian Airlines, and a short electrical problem that interrupted boarding, but finally we made it on to the plane. George was surprised with me, but I insisted on sitting in our designated seats. I really wanted to view Entebbe, Lake Victoria and the Nile on this departure from a window seat. It is quite a sight.

On the very full Addis to Toronto segment, I sat beside an Eritrean refugee, Arun, who was going to Whitby. When we got to Pearson, the International Organization for Migration bag he was carrying was the signal that workers at Immigration were looking for. Off he went to his new world. In our turn, we were met by Nancy to return us to ours.

Palm Desert – Weeks 2 & 3

24 Friday Feb 2017

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February 23rd – Having settled into a routine there sometimes isn’t a lot to write about. In the last 10 days we have golfed once, at Woodhaven, and played tennis twice. We also spent another day at Joshua Tree, participating in an interpretive walk, and driving through the remainder of the park that we didn’t see the first time.

We celebrated George’s birthday at the Daily Grill, went to a European-themed buffet at the Woodhaven Clubhouse, and visited the Outlet Mall. Last Sunday we attended the Presbyterian Community Church in the morning and then returned in the evening for a concert by the California Baptist University Men’s Chorus. It was a wonderful presentation and enthusiasm eked out of almost every pore on the stage. With a full range of musical instruments available, just about every type of religious musical genre was presented over the course of the evening.

The weather hasn’t been really warm for swimming but we have managed three dips in the pool.

Yesterday we met up with Elaine and Harry Porter, friends of Ron and Heather Hunter, whom we met at Heather’s birthday party. They have been coming to Palm Desert for many years and stay for two months. Golf arrangements didn’t work out so we just met up for a delightful lunch at Shield’s Date Farm. Begun in 1924, the farm produces about 95%of the dates sold in the US. A fun video called The Romance and Sex Life of the Date tells the story of the laborious method used to produce dates successfully. Lunch was delicious (hamburger with dates and blue cheese) and we found conversation easy with our new desert friends.

Today was probably the most interesting and educational day so far. Every year, Palm Springs celebrates Modernism Week – a celebration of the mid-century architecture found in this area. We haven’t attended before but thought a double-decker bus tour would be the ideal way to be introduced to this major festival. The tour was about 2-1/2 hours long and took us through a number of the well-defined neighbourhoods in Palm Springs.

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Burgess House c 1945 – wall took 15 years to build

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Example of Butterfly Roof – 3200 sq ft one bedroom

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One of Gloria Swanson’s homes – Spanish Revival

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Example of Hollywood Regency – pool in front – note large yellow doors

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House of Tomorrow c 1960 – master bedroom in front with waterfall underneath

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Kaufmann Desert House – Barry Manilow lived here 1971 to 1991

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2 acres of Robo Gardens – light show at Christmas is local sensation

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Twin Palms (Frank Sinatra) Estate – pool is piano-shaped

After our tour we went to lunch at Spencer’s – our favourite Palm Springs lunch date and then enjoyed an hour at St Theresa’s Parish School. The school has adopted the modernism theme as part of their teaching curriculum and each grade learns something about the local architecture. The grade six class has to research a building and its architect and then build a model to scale. Wow…they were fantastic! We enjoyed talking to the kids about why they chose their building and how they built their model. The grade seven class had an international theme and had to research a building and its architect and then produce an art piece based on their research. The CN Tower, the Sydney Opera House and the church in Tromso, Norway – all of which we have visited – were researched and made into art. It was interesting to hear why they had chosen a particular building and the meaning behind their artwork.

With only a few more days left in the Desert we are down to doing just a few more things that are becoming routine for us – mostly dining out at some of our favourite restaurants, golfing and playing one more game of tennis, and trying to make it into the pool once more before our flight on Tuesday.

Sad to be leaving so soon!

Palm Desert – Week 1

13 Monday Feb 2017

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February 12th – It’s been a rather relaxing few days as we settled-in to a routine and began to plan our time in the desert. We’ve had a lot of fun at the house and I suspect our hosts are just a bit frustrated with us, but when you pay good dollars for a place you expect it to be fairly well appointed. In our first four days here we found:

  • the waste disposal in the kitchen sink backed up and required a plumber
  • there were no pots smaller than 5 qt soup pots and no paring knives in the kitchen
  • the inside of the BBQ is all rusty and we have deemed it unusable
  • the inside of the dresser drawers have 1″ screws (obviously replacement handles) and I’ve managed to snag my hand and lingerie
  • there was only one pool towel
  • the lounger on the back patio has seen too much sun and now has a big hole in it.

We’ve kindly sent notes to the hosts so that they can remedy some of these things before the next tenants arrive. My guess is that they haven’t stayed here themselves, having just bought the property in the fall.

During the week we golfed on the course here, went to Joshua Tree National Park and the Moorten Botanical Gardens. We worshiped last Sunday at Southwest – a large campus church in La Quinta – and this Sunday at Hope Lutheran – an older church with a new contemporary service that was started just four months ago by the previous lead pastor and associate from Southwest. In both cases the worship style was contemporary and we recognized how these types of services are done within 60 – 75 minutes. There is very little liturgy, scripture is read as part of the sermon and very brief prayers.

The weather has been good although much cooler than last year. The forecast is for very wet and cool weather next weekend, so we’re planning a number of things for early this week.

Here are a few photos from our fabulous time at Joshua Tree National Park.

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Joshua Tree National Park covers some 800K acres of the Mohave desert, 558K of which has been protected as wilderness

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Legend has it that the Mormons gave the tree its name since it reminded them of the biblical Joshua raising his hands in supplication and leading them westward

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The roadside is bounded on both sides by huge piles of boulders in all shapes and sizes.

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A short hike took us to this dam which was used in the 1800s as a water source for a cattle ranch, which subsequently went out of business with the effects of climate change

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Hieroglyphics show the presence of a long-ago society. Some of these have unfortunately been damaged by “modern-day artists”

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From the highest point in the park you can see the Sultan Sea, Palm Springs and the famous San Andreas fault

From the ocean to the desert

04 Saturday Feb 2017

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January 31st – This was a relatively light day which started with a morning walk (George) around town and then into San Luis Obispo for lunch.We toured the lovely Mission San Luis Obispo de Toloso. Founded in 1722 by Spanish priest, Junipero Serra, it is the fifth of 21 missions founded along the California coast. It remains an active Catholic parish today and is found in a beautiful setting with the Mission Plaza, a community gathering spot, in front and the San Luis Creek running through the property.

san-luis-mission

After touring the Mission, we enjoyed lunch sitting outside by the Creek. When we got back to Morro Bay, we went to see Hidden Figures, a movie that won big at the SAG awards and will likely win at the Oscars. Dinner was leftovers from last night eaten in our hotel room.

February 1st – Today was a driving day as the trip from Morro Bay to Palm Desert takes about six hours. We took a small detour to the town of Solvang – a Danish heritage town in the middle of California!

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It’s a cute little town even though it really is a tourist trap. The best part was a Danish bakery at which we dropped a few dollars. Not surprisingly the danish were a hit!

Over breakfast, we chatted with two bikers who had driven the route the day before (in the opposite direction). They told us about an old stagecoach inn up near Cachuma Lake. Dating back to 1886, it hasn’t changed much over the years and maintains an historic menu including Tri-Tip French Baguette sandwiches, which are the house specialty. On the weekends, the place is so busy they barbecue them outside and sell them non-stop all day.

coldspringtavern

It was only 11:30am when we arrived, but we still enjoyed our lunch and ate every crumb!

We rolled into Palm Desert about 4:30pm and met Paula who provided the keys to our house. She isn’t the owner so really didn’t know too much about the house. We gradually made ourselves at home and decamped. The hardest part was finding the password for the internet!

February 3rd – Yesterday and today were spent reorienting ourselves to Palm Desert, finding the closest grocery store and purchasing needed supplies. We’re farther north and east of where we were last year so that requires a whole new set of stores and restaurants. Some of our favourite spots like the tennis courts and Whole Foods are not too far away and we’ll still be over that way from time to time. This morning we played tennis and did a bit of shopping before returning for lunch on the patio.

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Our house is in a gated community and ideally situated on the third tee box. The course doesn’t appear to be really busy this early in the month. We’ve booked a tee time for Monday and will report back.

Scrabble update – George has won three in a row. I need to pull up my socks!

A Castle on a Hill

31 Tuesday Jan 2017

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January 29th – We left the LA area this morning but not before taking one more trip down through town to the beaches. On a Sunday morning traffic was very light and we had no problems navigating our way to Marina del Ray. Boasting the world’s largest man-made small craft harbour with a capacity of 5,300 boats, we found it to be rather claustrophobic. There was no view of the ocean without having to park and the condos are built so close together that even the roads seem narrow. From there we drove north on the Pacific Coast Highway through lovely towns and scenic vistas to Santa Monica. As a famed resort town, Santa Monica sits on a relatively flat piece of land that gently slopes down to the ocean with miles of sandy beaches. Along the north side are high bluffs into which many homes of the wealthy and famous have been built. Not sure I’d want to live up there – some of them look quite precarious.

As we made our way north, we passed through areas of beaches on one side and steep cliffs on the other, into mountain passes where the ocean was no longer visible and then into verdant farmland that reminded us of the Holland Marsh at home. We passed what must be hundreds of acres of cauliflower, strawberries, spinach and other crops…as far as the eye could see. With the completion of this part of the Pacific Coast Highway, we have now completed almost all of it save for a small section between Los Angeles and  San Diego.

When we arrived at our hotel in Morro Bay, we realized that we had stopped in this little spot two years ago before going on to find the elusive Holiday Inn (Feb 2015). Dinner was at a little Italian restaurant within walking distance of the hotel and then we turned in early. Scrabble was a problem because of the internet and the game was postponed until tomorrow.

January 30th – Today we headed north about 45 minutes to Hearst Castle. Advertised as a museum like no other, it is the estate home of William Randolph Hearst – newspaper magnate and art collector. The castle is uniquely situated about 1600′ up atop a hill overlooking San Simeon Bay. Built between 1919 and 1948, which is a story in itself, the estate was the playground of the Hollywood and political elite during its heyday in the 1920s and 30s. The castle was built to house Hearst’s large collection of artifacts – some dating back to the 1400s. Tapestries, statuary, ceilings and furniture were brought from Europe and pieced back together on site.

nancy-george-hearst

Guests at the estate were left to their own pleasures during the day but appearing at dinner was mandatory, as was watching the evening’s movie in the theatre afterwards.

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The dining room – Hearst sat in the middle of the table

There are two pools on the property, although only one was operative during our visit. The Neptune pool,built to replicate a Roman temple, is currently under restoration.

Description Hearst Castle 8.JPG

The indoor pool, was built with Murano glass, from Italy, some of it inlaid with gold.

hearst-indoor-pool

Indoor Pool below the tennis courts

For dinner tonight, we drove in to San Luis Obispo and went to the Big Sky Cafe at the recommendation of the lady from whom we are renting in Palm Desert. We ordered the daily special – a three course spanish meal including the most delicious seafood paella for two. In true American fashion, there is enough for dinner tomorrow night. Fortunately, our hotel room has a microwave.

Last night’s scrabble game was won by Nancy and George ruled the game board tonight with two seven letter words late in the game.

California – Part 3

29 Sunday Jan 2017

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January 28, 2017 – Here we are back in California for the third year in a row, on our way to a month in Palm Desert. This year we decided to do Los Angeles, since George had never been, and Hearst Castle, since we missed it two years ago on our way down from San Fransisco to San Diego.

Our departure from Mississauga and arrival in Palm Desert reminded us of the need to be conscious of how much luggage one is carrying and what sized vehicle to order. The taxi in Mississauga was a large Lincoln town car but because it had been converted to propane the trunk space was too small for our golf clubs. Another car had to be sent and fortunately arrived with just a five minute delay. The dispatcher had chosen to ignore my brief note about luggage since I had ordered a sedan instead of a van. You would think they’d call and question it. When we arrived in Palm Desert we found an mid-size car here would be called an economy car back home, so this time George had a problem sitting in the front seat. Even with the seat all the way back, his head was still touching the top of the windscreen and roof…a bit dangerous I’d say. They brought us another car but again the luggage wouldn’t all fit in the smaller sized trunk. In the end we had to upgrade to a full-sized car.

Our hotel is the Hampton Inn in Glendale which is in a rather upscale neighbourhood with three blocks of high-end stores and restaurants and a lovely park with a water fountain and trolley route. One of the streets also sports a huge chandelier! After settling in and having a short rest, we headed out for dinner to a Mexican restaurant and then walked through the area – called The Americana at Brand.

Today we headed to downtown Los Angeles for the Grand Tour of the City. Despite all the dire warnings about driving in and around LA it wasn’t any worse than Toronto; it was Saturday, after all. The tour company had arranged to pick us up at the Marriott hotel, which we realized after we got there, was one of the host hotels for the NHL All Star weekend. This became obvious when one of the first people we saw in the lobby was Wayne Gretzky!

The tour took us first to the Walt Disney Theatre, the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and some of the other major musical venues. Then it was on to the Griffiths Observatory, from where one can see the famous Hollywood sign, out to the beaches in the West, and the wider LA urban area in the north and south – spectacular views, despite a brown haze of smog on the horizon.

la-downtown

Relatively small downtown core

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Nancy and the iconic sign

From there it was on to Hollywood, the famous theatres, the Walk of Fame and the historic Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Among the theatre’s most distinctive features are the concrete blocks set in the forecourt, which bear the signatures, footprints, and handprints of popular motion picture personalities from the 1920s to the present day. It used to be that the individual must have had a movie which had it’s premiere at the theatre, but it seems that this has been waived given that movie premieres are no longer shown there. R2-D2 and C-3PO have a block right in the front by the sidewalk. I was there with the kids many years ago but can’t remember if that square was there or not. It so, it would have been Georgie’s favourite! I was pleasantly surprised to see how the area has been cleaned up since we visited about 25 years ago.

From there we traveled through various sections of town to Beverley Hills where we got a taste of some of the Hollywood Stars’ homes. In particular we saw where Katie fled from Tom and where Lindsay Lohan hangs out.

 

This was one of the most interesting ones – called the Witch’s House – it was moved to its present location from a movie lot in 1934. The 3500 sq ft house is worth about $10M today.

The next stop was the Farmers Market and the Grove – a unique mix of old and new. The Original Farmers Market, first opened in 1934, is an open-air market with over 100 vendors including meat and vegetable stalls, ready-to-eat foods of every ethnic persuasion, and a few tourist shops. We had world famous corned beef sandwiches from Magees and homemade ice cream from Bennett’s – Fancy Nancy was the chosen flavour.

On the way back to the various hotels to drop people off, George kept our tour guide Mark – a transplanted Canadian – in conversation, as only George can.

Dinner tonight was at the Outback Steakhouse. Ironically, we passed on a Crepe restaurant because the only seating was outside and we thought it might be a tad chilly but the air conditioning was even colder at the Outback and we hurried out to a coffee shop after dinner to warm up!

Now for our first game of Scrabble. Who will be the big winner this year?

Amsterdam (again)

20 Monday Jun 2016

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June 18th – When we woke up this morning, we thought that our plans for the day would be washed out given a very heavy rain. Since breakfast at the hotel was too pricey, George and I went off to McDonalds to have breakfast and bring something back for George Jr. We were quickly drenched. By 10 am when we were getting ready to leave, the rain had abated and the forecast had changed to allow for some sun and cloud throughout the rest of the morning and into the early afternoon. Our plans were still on!

Madurodam is a miniature village in The Hague which, if I am correct, was what first turned Len Cullen on to the idea of building one in Whitby. While this one covers less actual area, there are many more miniatures, more moving parts and lots more interactive displays. One section contains the historical buildings of The Netherlands, while another concentrates on the industrial story and still another depicts the cultural side. Some of the things that fascinated us were:

  • the moving procession at the cathedral
  • a chocolate bar delivered by truck to me from the Mars bar chocolate factory
  • a simulated concert with fans moving to the music with George’s voice coming through the speakers
  • Trains, trams and boats everywhere

We planned to stay for two hours but it turned into three.

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Model of the concert hall where we will be tonight

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Model of the rock concert

Fortunately, the rain held off until just as we were leaving.

There was lots of discussion on the way into Amsterdam about dropping the bags at the hotel first or dropping the car at the airport first. We decided to do the latter since George Jr had a very large duffel bag that didn’t need to be transported into the city. After filling the car with gas (a story in itself), we dropped the car, checked the duffel bag and took a hotel shuttle into the city. Good choice! Amsterdam – the city of every type of transit all moving at the same time. Watch out for the trams; here comes a car; oops, stay out of the bicycle lane.

Our hotel, Vondel Hotel, is very well located in the museum area beside Vondelpark. After checking in and having a brief rest, we were getting ready to head out for dinner when I decided to pull out our tickets for the symphony concert which we had ordered a few weeks ago. George and I both had in our minds that we had chosen Sunday night. Surprise…it’s Saturday night! A quick change and we headed off to dinner at a restaurant we knew close to the Concertgebouw Hall.

The program included the world premiere of Morphic Waves by a composer younger than George Jr and a number of Mahler’s Lieders sung by a British mezzo-soprano. The second half was Brahm’s Symphony No. 4 in E, which was stunning in an old European-style concert hall built in the 1880s.

June 19th –  Today we split up and did different things since we had so little time in Amsterdam. George Jr went to see the Banksy exhibition at the new Moco Gallery and then took a 48km bike ride in the afternoon.  George and I trooped around old town looking at gardens. This weekend was Open Gardens and there were about 30 gardens on the list. Most are never seen by the public because they are gardens of the houses along the canals. Access to the back yard is only through the house. We saw some nice gardens but we both agreed that our garden would rival any of the ones we saw today. Great affirmation of all our hard work!

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18th Century formal garden at a museum

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Lovely rose standard at the Waldorf Astoria

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Our favourite with a climbing rose scrambling though a Cyprus tree

George Jr treated us to supper for Father’s Day and then we went on the sunset cruise of the harbour and canals. A great way to end our vacation.

 

 

The Hague

19 Sunday Jun 2016

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June 17th – George and I have always wanted to see The Hague, site of the International Court of Justice.  Since it was on our way from Bruges to Amsterdam, this seemed like a good time to make the visit.

On our way we stopped at Deltapark to show George Jr the delta work project that had impressed us so much on our 2012 trip to The Netherlands. An engineering marvel, further information can be found at www.deltawerken.com (click on the British flag to read it in English).

We arrived in The Hague in time for a quick lunch and then spent the rest of the afternoon at the Escher in the Palace Museum. M.C. Escher was a mathematician and graphic artist who George feels some kinship with, since his geometry prof, Dr. Coxeter, and Escher collaborated periodically. We have at least one book of Escher’s art at home. Escher was a master of the visual paradox – water seeming to run uphill, people seeming to move both up and down a staircase, and many others. The museum houses about 150 prints, which are rotated from time to time, on the first two floors and a fun interactive exhibit on the third floor. It was well worth the two or three hours we spent there.

The museum is housed in the Winter Palace of Queen Mother Emma of The Netherlands and in each room there is a description and picture of how the room would have been used during her time. I was fascinated by the light fixtures in each room which were crystal chandeliers in various figures – a fish, a bird, a bottle, an artist’s pallet, etc. When I asked if these were original to the palace the answer was ‘no.’ It seems that it is Dutch custom to take all the light fixtures with you when you sell a house. The new owner has to replace them. This is what happened at the palace. Subsequently a competition was held and a Dutch artist won the task of designing a chandelier for each room. They are all made of Czech crystal.

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We have really appreciated having GPS in the car and getting around The Hague was made much easier except that one needs to put the right street name into the system. Our first attempt at finding our hotel took us to an area that George Jr described as “the projects.” It was certainly a working class area and there were no hotels. Our second attempt was successful, although the street where the hotel was located was a no car zone. We had to park in a parkette and drag our suitcases for a few blocks.

We decided it was time for Indian food for dinner and found a small restaurant on the same street as the hotel. The owner asked where we came from and got very excited when we told him we were from Mississauga. He has a cousin in Etobicoke and he has visited twice. After dinner we wandered through town which was quite lively for a Friday evening.

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