We had so much fun traveling together in Ireland last year that George Jr decided to take us all to Iceland this year. He wanted to do it before mom and dad got too old! It was very generous of him to book our tickets, rent the car, establish a reasonable itinerary and act as chauffeur and guide.
We flew out of Hamilton via Play airlines. For some of us that was our first experience flying out of the small Hamilton airport. How nice to be able to unload easily on arrival, check in quickly and not experience any wait through security. The service on Play was fine and staff were quite friendly, other than one attendant who wore a very powerful perfume. For those of us who are scent-sensitive, it was an unpleasant experience each time she passed by.
We left Hamilton at 7 p.m. and arrived in Iceland at 4 a.m., a bit tired but ready to start our next adventure. It took about two hours at the airport since the car rental booth didn’t open until 5:30. We chose to have a small breakfast at one of the bakeries while waiting. It was cool and rainy when we left the terminal, and there was a bit of a walk to where our car was parked. Welcome to Iceland!
Day 1 – Given that we couldn’t check in to our hotel until after lunch and nothing was open yet, George took us on a little ride out by the Blue Lagoon. This is in the area where the Sundhnuksgigar eruption began on August 22nd, closing the town of Grindavik. We were able to see the volcano from a distance on the way out but it had disappeared completely by the time we returned from our drive. George was quite amazed at how the traffic pattern had changed since his last trip, because the lava had overflowed the road.
Driving on to Reykjavik, we continued our tour checking out the beautiful concert hall down near the harbour and the Hallgrimskirkja church, which is both a parish church and a national sanctuary. Built on top of a hill it is visible by two-thirds of the people in Reykjavik. Also well-known and oft photographed is the rainbow road which celebrates Reykjavik Pride which has taken place annually since 1999. While we were out walking, Jenn met a couple from her office who were walking back to their hotel to head to the airport. What are the chances? Better in Iceland since the population is only 400,000.
By then most things were open, and we headed over to Perlan, a museum like no other, to spend the next part of the day. Perlan is a nature exploratorium and science centre all rolled into one. Many of the exhibitions are interactive and educational. For those just arriving in Iceland it provides an excellent overview of what you will see on your travels. For those who can only spend a few short hours in Reykjavik, it is an excellent place to see what you’ll be missing. Our favourite part was the ice cave – a 100m glacier hike and a video of the most recent volcanic eruption. What power!
By lunch time we were all tired and ready for a nap. After checking in to the hotel, three of us went to sample Iceland’s famous hot dogs – a combination of lamb, beef and pork (organic, free-range, hormone free). It’s the cheapest meal you will buy in Iceland!
After our nap, we headed out to find dinner at one of the street food restaurants. Because the first one wasn’t what we expected, we all got up and headed out the door. We eventually found the one we were looking for – Icelandic lamb soup served in a bread bowl.
In the category of we knew it, we expected it but we still couldn’t quite believe it – food is very expensive in Iceland. Breakfast ranges from $32-40, a Subway sandwich is $15 and our bread bowls were $30 each. The good part was you were allowed refills.
Day 2 – Hooray, the sun was shining when we left in the morning which made for great hiking/walking weather. Our first stop was Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It holds deep historical, cultural and geological significance. From 930 until 1798, it was the site of the annual parliament of Iceland. In 1944, it was chosen as the site of the celebration of Iceland’s independence from Denmark. Given WW2, the King of Denmark could no longer provide protection for Iceland, and hence it was decided that Iceland should become an independent country.
Located in a rift valley, it is the only place in the world where you can snorkel between two tectonic plates. Thingvallavatn Lake is Iceland’s largest and is fed by ground water from the Langajokull glacier. It evidently takes about 30 years to actually reach the lake. Within the park is also a church and the Prime Minister’s summer residence.
Then it was on to see the Strokkur Geyser, which erupts every few minutes to heights of up to 115′. We saw a couple of eruptions but none that high. The visitor’s centre was a welcome spot to stop for lunch.
After lunch we travelled a short distance to the Gullfoss Falls, which means “the golden falls.” Our chauffeur dropped us off midway down the hill but it was still a bit of a wet descent to the bottom level. It doesn’t quite rival Niagara Falls but the rainbow was pretty. Dad was quite close to the end of the rainbow at the bottom, but he claims there was no pot of gold. I stayed at the midway point and chatted with a couple from the US who were doing a similar tour with their siblings.
We saw a lot of horses in Iceland as well as farms with sheep and some cattle. We didn’t see any pigs. The horses are specially bred for hardiness owing to the ruggedness of the land. Laws in place prevent foreign-born horses from being imported and any horses exported are not allowed to return. This ensures that the native breed experiences few diseases. Typically they are used for sheep-herding, leisure, showing and racing.
The last stop for the day was the Kerid Crater, which Jenn and dad hiked around on their own. A volcanic crater thought to be about 6500 years old, it was formed by a volcanic cone that erupted, the weight of which caused the cone to collapse creating the current crater. It is made up of a unique red volcanic rock. The water is fairly shallow and is at the same level as the surrounding water table.
It was just a short drive from there to Sellfoss, our stop for the night. Dinner was at the Old Dairy Food Hall, an historical house that was the first dairy factory built in 1929. It has eight different restaurants in a gourmet fair type setting so everyone’s taste buds could be satisfied. After a little walk to wear off dinner, we turned in early, because we had an early departure the next morning to catch the ferry to Westman Island.
Day 3 – The weather was damp with a biting cold wind. We’re told Iceland has not had a good summer weather-wise and we are just experiencing the ups and downs of living in a maritime climate. Our route took us on a ferry over to Westman Island, scene of a large volcanic eruption in 1973. The entrance to the harbour is shielded by very high cliffs that dramatically rise out of the ocean. We certainly wondered how the captain pilots a ship through such a narrow opening. Practice makes perfect, I guess.
Our first stop was at a little Viking museum that told the story of Herjolfur, his wife Freyja, and their two children. The turf house has been recreated along with artifacts and samples of traditional Viking delicacies. We sampled dulce, dried sausage, dried fish that seemed like a cracker, whipped butter, black lava salt, and Viking vodka.
We had lunch at a little cafe down near the harbour and then visited the Puffin and Beluga Rescue Centre. The Centre provides a natural sanctuary in a protected sea inlet that allows for land-side care. Currently two belugas, Little White and Little Gray, who were rescued from a Chinese water park, call the sanctuary home. It is the hope that this more natural setting will provide opportunity for more belugas to be housed. The Centre also acts as the Puffin Rescue Mission, treating puffins and then releasing them. Locals, including schoolchildren, act as the Puffling Patrol, finding and bringing in puffins (usually babies) in need of assessment and care. It is always the intent to release them back into the wild but at least three make the Centre their permanent home because of permanent injuries.
Our next stop was the site of the eruption of Eldfell on January 23, 1973 in the early morning hours. Lasting until July 3rd, nearly 1/3 of the homes and buildings were burned or buried under the lava and ash. A storm the previous day meant all the fishing boats were in port providing the means to evacuate 5000 people from the town quickly. As a result of the eruption the island grew by more than 2 square kilometres, the harbour entrance that was almost blocked by the lava ended with a better protected harbour, and the lava brought unlimited landfill material which had been scarce. It also brought new people to the island while others who lost their homes decided not to return.
Most of the oldest part of the town was completely buried, but within months rebuilding and reconstruction of the town’s infrastructure was begun. In May 2014, a museum of remembrance was opened giving visitors a chance to go back in time and learn about the dramatic events that took place. The highlight is the house at Gerdisbraut 10, which has been excavated, and the museum built around it. It demonstrates the cruel treatment of nature. Interestingly, the cemetery gates were filled with lava and ash but survived. One of the pictures show the destruction of the island’s water tank, still filled with lava rocks.
Lastly, we visited two reconstructed buildings down by the harbour. One was the home of Solveig Palsdottir, the first midwife on the island. The other was a replica church donated by Norway to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of Christianity on the island. Jennifer was taken by the children’s song The B-I-B-L-E in the Icelandic language.
After all that, the day wasn’t quite over. We had a great meal at Gott’s restaurant in town and then dad and George visited the local swimming (thermal) pool for a quick dip. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t really showing it off to its best.
Day 4 – Today was all about the puffins and waterfalls. After a bit of a slower morning, we drove out to see where the puffins nest. The hillside is covered with their burrows and while most had already left their nests for the winter, there were still a few coming and going. They are very hard to capture on film!
On the way back into town, we stopped to check out the golf course. Since it’s right on the coast it was a wee bit windy. In Iceland you don’t have gorse between the tee box and the fairway, you have large rocks and ocean. George figured he would lose lots of balls on this course with his hook swing. I wondered if you get a free drop if your ball landed in a lava-rock formation. There was actually a couple golfing as we returned to the car. It looked like a true slog in the wind!
We returned to town for lunch and an introduction to Icelandic yogurt called Skyr – delicious with fruit and toppings.
Then it was back on the ferry to head in the direction of Vik, stopping at no fewer than 4 different waterfalls. Our first stop was Gljufrafoss, a 131-foot waterfall hidden behind a cliff. Getting close requires getting wet and clambering over slippery rocks to arrive at a large flat rock where you can take pictures. Also at this stop was Seljalandsfoss, probably one of the more famous waterfalls. Standing about 197 feet tall, there is a path that allows you to walk behind the falls and experience another opportunity to get wet. I don’t think our son thought I would be able to do these two waterfalls but I persevered and had fun doing it. In between the two waterfalls is another small one with its own unique features. All of these waterfalls are accessible along a 1.2 km path from the parking lot. The hot chocolate was a welcome treat at the end of our hike.
The last waterfall for the day was Skogafoss. At 82 feet wide and 200 feet tall, it is powerful and epic! It’s easily reached along a short path from the parking lot. We didn’t have time but evidently a hike up about 530 steps to the top provides you with incredible views of the waterfall and surrounding area.
Our last stop was at Dyrholaey, a hill overlooking Black Sand Beach, with its interesting rock formations and old lighthouse. The black sand, of course, is formed from volcanic lava, creating a dramatic contrast against the powerful waves of the Atlantic Ocean. The basalt columns located along the cliffs of Reynisfall mountain are formed by cooling lava. According to local folklore, these large sea stacks were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to the shore. However, the trolls went out too late one night and as dawn broke, with sunlight on the horizon, the trolls turned into stone. Dyrholaey means “the hill island with the door hole” and perfectly describes the enormous lava arch that dominates the coastline. The lighthouse, completed in 1927, isn’t open to visitors and still emits a white light every 10 seconds guiding ships around Iceland’s southernmost point.
Then it was into Vik and our lovely home for the evening. We rented at Vik Apartments on the same property as the Vik Hotel. We had a big two-bedroom suite that included a full kitchen and laundry facilities. Time for showers, clean clothes and a nice dinner across the road at the Strodin Pub (great choice!). Since we didn’t want to buy breakfast supplies for just one morning, we were able to enjoy a full breakfast at the Vik Hotel next door.
Day 5 – Today’s adventure was all about glaciers, which cover about 11% of the land area of Iceland. Our first stop was at the Fjadrargljufur gorge, made famous by Justin Bieber music video, I’ll Show You. The kids hiked part way up to the top while we just sat on a bench in the sun. Unfortunately, the gorge was closed after Justin’s escapade but has now reopened with more stringent rules to protect the fragile nature of the area. It’s a shame that so many areas have to be roped or fenced off because people just don’t understand that tromping all over the flora and fauna, rather than staying on the path, will eventually spoil things for everyone.
Then it was on to the Vatnajokull glacier, the largest in Iceland covering about 10% of the land area. Under the ice cap there are volcanoes, whose eruptions have caused the development of large pockets of water beneath the ice. Occasionally these break through and cause severe flooding carrying huge icebergs across the sand flats to the eastern side. The ‘artwork’ in one of the photos is the remnants of a bridge that was washed out during one of the last floods in 1996. After we had lunch at the visitors centre, we hiked down to the edge of the glacier. Jenn and dad made it all the way to the bottom while George and I stopped after 2 km. The sun was shining and it was very warm through part of the hike, but it definitely got colder as we got closer to the glacier.
Our last stops for the day were Iceberg Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As the glacier recedes, large chunks break off and begin their voyage to the sea. Icebergs stay in the lagoon for up to three months but many only last about three weeks or less. When they get to the ocean they break up completely and small shards of ice wash up on the nearby beach and appear to be ‘diamonds’ on the sand.
It was late when we arrived at the Foss Hotel so we quickly unloaded and headed into Hofn for a late night snack. The Traditional Icelandic Dessert at Kaffi Hornid was excellent!
Day 6 – Today’s adventure was big skies, mountains and fjords, with a little off-roading for good measure. We toured around Hofn briefly stopping at the harbour to check out the Hofn Universe Sculpture and the nature walk. The walk is about 3 km (we didn’t do it because of time) and to-scale displays the size and orbits of the planets in the solar system. The sculpture is a memorial but to whom we do not know.
Pictures from day 6 are just a few of the scenes along the way – fjords, rocky mountain vistas, farms and a quaint fishing village, Djupivogur, where we stopped for lunch and visited the port and cultural centre. On the way out of town, we were fascinated by the sculpture, “The Eggs of Merry Bay”, representing the 34 eggs from species of birds that nest in the Djupivogur area.
George travelled this route last year on his way to the ferry that took him from Seydisfjordur to the Faroe Islands. On that trip, he parked his bike about 15 km from Seydisfjordur, returned his rental car back to the airport in Egilsstadir (about 15 km back), hitchhiked back to his bike and coasted down a really scary road with multiple hairpin turns into town. This time, we drove from the mountains to the port, and enjoyed the beautiful vistas as we descended.
Seydisfjordur is very small with a population of about 675, just a few restaurants and very few options for accommodation. Book ahead! It’s a very picturesque town surrounded by mountains and waterfalls and has a fairly lively cultural life.
Day 7 – Continuing on along the ring road travelling northwest, our first stop was Dettifoss waterfall, ranked as the second most powerful in Europe. 100 metres wide, the water plummets 45 metres down into Jokulsargljufur canyon. It is definitely quite a sight and well worth the visit.
Our next stop was Myvatn, a geothermal area that is renowned for its wealth of flora and fauna, particularly its birdlife. Our first stop was a fun spot where we had lunch. Vogafjos Farm Resort is a family-run guesthouse which includes a restaurant adjoining the barn where one can watch, if you arrive at the right time, the cows being milked. Just about everything on the menu is grown and made on the farm. Great spot!
After lunch we travelled up the Namaskard Pass, on Mount Namafjall to the Namaskard Geothermal Area, a stark landscape defined by seething fumaroles, sulphuric smells and brightly coloured clay. Walking around this area makes it feel like you’ve entered another world. It’s hard to believe that just over the mountain is the lush landscape we had just left.
Also in this area is a large geothermal plant and Hverfjall Crater Mountain.
Our stop for the evening was Husavik. After a short rest we walked down to the harbour for dinner at Restaurant Salka, a great spot to eat. Then for our evening’s entertainment we visited the Eurovision Song Contest Exhibition. What fun! Based on the movie Eurovision Song Contest – the Story of Fire Saga the exhibition tells the story of the song contest, Iceland’s history at the competition and a behind-the-scenes look at the Netflix original film. Husavik, where some of the movie was filmed, became an overnight sensation.
Day 8 – Our original plan was to perhaps go whale watching or to a spa in the morning but the weather wasn’t cooperative. Wet, cold and windy we opted for the Whale Museum instead. The museum includes 13 real whale skeletons, interactive displays, and informative presentations providing a deeper understanding of these magnificent creatures and their importance in the marine ecosystems. Of particular interest was a documentary on the pilot whale hunt that takes place on the Faroe Islands. Interestingly, Canada still catches the most whales under the aboriginal exemption provision of the International Whaling Commission. The debate continues.
Our stop for this night was Akureyri, just an hour from Husavik. With a short drive we were able to make a couple of stops along the way and get into town early enough to enjoy some of the Akureyri sites. Our first stop was the Ystafell Transportation Museum, the oldest car museum in Iceland. Its main purpose is to preserve and show various ways and means of transportation and is the loving effort and dedication of one man and a team of volunteers.
Then it was off to see yet another waterfall across the bay from Akureyri. The water was steaming but those who tried it reported that it was just warm, not hot as usual. We saw one brave fellow who had taken a dip. Given the 2C temperature, I’m not sure how he made it back to his car without turning into an icicle.
There were two cruise liners in port and while we were eating lunch George noticed a whole bunch of people on scooters. We figure that was one of the Port excursion tours offered.
After lunch we went to the Botanical Gardens – one of the northernmost, sitting just 50 km south of the Arctic Circle. The Botanical Gardens in Tromso, Norway is further north. It was most interesting touring a garden in our winter garb and seeing lots of colourful flowers in bloom, many of which bloom in a different season at home. Delphiniums, foxglove, many varieties of asters, pansies and columbine were all in bloom together.
After checking into Hotel Kea, which is right downtown, we stopped for dinner at the Bautinn right across the road. After dinner we strolled through town. We found Akureyri quite a cute little town as we walked around. Where else do you see garbage pails disguised as trolls with knitted outfits? But beware: in one of the souvenir shops I found some cute aprons with puffins on them. I purchased three for a volunteer group that I work with back home. We thought they were about $10 each … turned out they were $60 each!
The Lutheran Church was consecrated in 1940 and holds a dominant place in town.
Day 9 – We debated staying in town for an extra hour to return the aprons, but we had a long drive ahead of us and abandoned the idea. Live and learn!
Winter finally caught up to us and we saw a fair bit of snow along the way. Fortunately, it didn’t collect on the road, ensuring a safe trip into Reykjavik. After a stop in Blonduos at a pizza restaurant, we motored on to Reykjavik, arriving late afternoon. There isn’t really much to see on that part of the circle road. A short stop at the Grabrok crater provided an opportunity for a bit of exercise. Over 3,000 years old, it is very visitor friendly and relatively easy to access. Once at the top, the view is quite stunning and you can see one other crater, Gravrokarfell, in the distance.
We did shorten the trip 45 km by taking the Hvalfjordur Tunnel – a 5.8 km sub-sea tunnel that only takes about seven minutes instead of one hour around the fjord.
Our hotel of choice was the Viking Hotel in a southern suburb. It was quite a fun-looking spot but not the best hotel on our trip. The rooms were quite small and breakfast offerings were minimal. Dinner that night was Ikea for meatballs – another cheap meal. Dad and I welcomed an early evening rest at the hotel, while George Jr and Jenn went off to the Lava Museum.
Day 10 – Today was spa day. The sun shone and it was actually warmer than the 8C forecast. Our first stop was the famous Blue Lagoon. For those who aren’t aware, it’s the most famous outdoor spa in Iceland and probably one of the largest complexes. While we planned for cold, with the sun shining and the steam coming off the water, it was a very pleasant experience. After changing and wading into the pool, we went over to get our free drink at the swim-up bar. Then it was off to get our mud mask. Some of us were obviously better than others at putting it on. There are a number of different areas in the pool and we were there for about 90 minutes altogether.
After lunch (at a Subway), the kids dropped dad and me off at the Lava Museum, and they went into town to do some shopping. The purpose of the presentation is to explain how volcanoes form, the different kinds of volcanoes, and how the lava flows. It was a fascinating show with real lava flowing in a controlled indoor setting. As the lava cooled, the presenter explained the properties of the lava, and demonstrated how hard it becomes as it cools. It has the sound and feel of glass, but underneath, it is still molten and very hot. While it would normally take about three days for it to harden completely, the technicians have a way to collect it and recycle it for the next show in less than two hours. We highly recommend this experience.
We walked back into town and met the kids for dinner at Saeta Svinid Gastropub. The portions were huge but dinner was absolutely delicious! Dessert was to die for and required a four-way sharing. While we were walking through old town, dad mentioned that it felt like we were in Dublin. Lo and behold, there was the Dubliner (pub) on the next street corner. After we returned to our car, our chauffeur took the long route back to the hotel around the peninsula and the suburb of Alftanes.
Then it was time to pack and get ready for our departure tomorrow.
Day 11 – All good vacations must come to an end. For our last few hours in Iceland, we visited the Viking World Museum which tells the story of how the Vikings settled in Iceland from Norway beginning about 800. By 930, they were convening a central annual gathering to consider issues affecting the whole island. Based on what we heard on Day 2, this would have been at Thingvellir. The structure has continued, with few lapses, to function as Iceland’s parliament. The main attraction at the museum is the Viking ship, The Icelander, which was sailed to New York in 2000 to commemorate Leif Erikson’s journey to the New World a thousand years earlier. Included in the presentation was some discussion about the Vikings’ travel and settlement in Canada.
The last stop was a special surprise for Jenn. We travelled out to what seemed like the end of the world to the spot where Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams performed Volcano Man for the movie The Story of Fire Saga. What a fun way to end our 11 days in Iceland!
Then it was off to the airport and our flight home. I must say we loved the Hamilton airport. It’s small, there was no wait for luggage or customs, and our driver met us right outside the airport terminal. A very civilized airport experience!
Now on to planning our next adventure to France.
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