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Monthly Archives: June 2014

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A full day of music

29 Sunday Jun 2014

If Vienna is a city of music, then today was our day to experience the music of Vienna. We began with a trip to Haus Der Musik- actually just across the street from our hotel. Think science centre meets music and you’ll have a good idea of what it was like. We began on the third floor, which paid tribute to Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Strauss, Mahler and other lesser known composers who lived and worked in Vienna. There were a number of fun activities including composing a piece using your name and directing the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. An audio guide provided a detailed description of the life and work of each of the composers. The second floor was all about sound – how we first begin to hear sound in the womb right through to how sound can be manipulated. One could even make their own CD by choosing and manipulating various sounds to make music. The museum is a wonderful setting for children to explore and learn about music – one I’m sure is well used by school groups.

After a quick lunch we headed off to Schonbrunn Palace to see The Magic Flute at the Marionettentheater. As you might guess this was presented by marionettes. What a great way to spend an afternoon! Each puppet is about 2 feet high and has anywhere from 8 to 16 strings. Because the stage is small, it produces an optical illusion making the puppets appear life-sized. The music and dialogue was all pre-taped and was of excellent quality. Afterwards we were invited backstage to see the puppets and find out a little more about how the theatre works behind the scenes. Even though it’s in German, I encourage you to watch the video on their website. It describes how they make and manipulate the puppets http://www.Marionettentheater.at.

imageDinner tonight was at the Cafe Centrale at the recommendation of the front desk. The building has an old world charm and lays claim to the place where Leon Trotsky came to play chess while he lived in Vienna. In fact they had a likeness of Trotsky (made of styrofoam) sitting by the front door. Imagine our surprise when Mr Trotsky met with an accident and lost a foot, while we were eating dinner! In true Viennese fashion the cake counter takes up the centre portion of the cafe…they do like their sweets. During dinner, a pianist played an eclectic selection of pieces including show tunes, folk songs, movie themes and jazz. We had to stay for dessert because we were enjoying the music.

Tonight we’re watching the soccer game (with German commentary) and preparing for a train trip back to Budapest tomorrow morning. We’ll only be able to watch half the game tonight because it goes to 12:30 which makes for a very late night. We’ve really enjoyed Vienna and I expect that we’ll be back to spend more time here. There is so much to do.

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Klimt at Belvedere

28 Saturday Jun 2014

imageWow, no garbage trucks or cafés setting up on Saturday meant a nice quiet morning that didn’t start until after 9am. Our travels today started with a walk over to a quilt shop which unfortunately closed some time ago. Makes one wish that websites would self destruct when businesses close. That’s not the first time we’ve gone looking for something based on a website only to find out it no longer exists. Next stop was a bank machine and then off to the main event of the day – Belvedere Palace.

Belvedere was originally built as a summer home for Prince Eugene of Savoy and is constructed as two palaces linked by a formal garden. It now serves as an art gallery and is currently running a special showing of the work of Gustavo Klimt. After touring an exhibition of Russian paintings in the lower palace we stopped for lunch in The Menagerie. One of the problems we have discovered is that vegetables are few and far between here and generally not served with dinner. In order to compensate we’ve been having soup or salad for lunch. Today’s salad was greens with goat cheese, honey and nuts. They poured the honey over the cheese and then baked it so it had a crusty outer layer. Yummy, yummy!

The Klimt collection was probably a dozen paintings including The Kiss, likely the best known. I really enjoyed listening to the commentary on the audio guide, which helps you understand the background story of the painting and highlights certain special features. Other than finding out about each of the rooms in the palace, some of which were spectacular, one of my favourite displays was a series of busts of the funny faces people make when they take medicine! We headed home about 4pm to have a short rest and change before dinner.

Tonight we took the subway and bus out to a suburb called Grinzing. It’s quite easy to get around on public transit. There are four subway lines and a number of streetcar lines in addition to the busses. Everything seems to be very clean and electronic signs keep you updated as to when the next train or bus will arrive. Grinzing is a cute little town that began as a result of the wine industry. Heuriger (new vintage) wine taverns used to sell their own wines, while snacks were offered for free. The snacks are no longer free but diners sit at wooden tables in a courtyard and many sample the different wines of the vintner until the wee hours of the morning. It was a lovely warm evening with just a slight breeze which made dining al fresco quite appealing. We had a nice chat with a German couple who sat next to us and then on the way home in the subway we met a fellow from North Carolina who is here teaching at a Christian school. He gave himself away when he asked “Where y’all from?”

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Cruising the Danube

27 Friday Jun 2014

imageWhat a beautiful day this turned out to be! Not only was it sunny and warm but our tour took us to see some beautiful scenery and we met some nice folks along the way. While we were waiting for our tour operator to pick us up outside our hotel, George got into a conversation with another hotel guest. It turns out he’s a church organist in Norway, so I think they enjoyed their conversation. The bus picked us up shortly after 9am and took us to a central location where we met the double-decker tour bus. The drive of about an hour was from Vienna to Spitz, through some lovely countryside – farming, forest and vineyards – and a number of small quaint towns. Maybe sometime we’ll come back and travel that way on our own. At Spitz we transferred to a boat for a trip up the Danube to the town of Melk.

On the boat we shared space with a couple from Australia and found we had quite a bit in common. She is very involved in their church, enjoys church music and of course, travel is always a great topic to while away the time. We shared lunch with them once we arrived at Melk, then it was off to see the beautiful Benedictine Abbey. Our tour guide at the Abbey was a young girl from a small village nearby who spoke perfect English. She did a great job telling us about the history of the baroque building, which is still a working Abbey. The church was unbelievably ornate with gold everywhere one looked. A few of us commented on how incongruous that seemed given the Benedictine focus on the community. The library was also interesting – housing some 100,000 volumes dating back to the Middle Ages.

The trip back to Vienna by bus was somewhat quieter – both of us took the opportunity to have a brief snooze. We just stopped for dinner at another one of the little cafés on our street on our way back home, as we were both tired. Tonight we spent the time catching up on email (George had lots of emails to acknowledge) and planning our last two days in Vienna.

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What day is it and where are we?

26 Thursday Jun 2014

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Well, this was certainly an interesting day…definitely not as planned. It was pretty uneventful until I checked our email. The confirmation for our tickets for this evening’s performance at the Spanish Riding School indicated the performance was for September 26th not June 26th. My fault I misread the website. Disappointed, we’ve requested a refund, which shouldn’t be a problem. Second problem was that George’s email was spoofed and we started getting interesting messages asking if we were really in Turkey and needed money! Not sure yet how to fix this from here.

Our touring today consisted of a bus tour of the inner city where we learned about the Hapsburg Palace – 17 wings and 2800 rooms – the city hall, Beethoven’s itinerant lifestyle – 80 different apartments durin his lifetime – and a number of special gardens. This was followed by a wonderful visit to the Museum of Fine Art. The building itself is a masterpiece, specifically built as a museum. Each of the ceilings in the small rooms were painted with different motifs, so it was important to look up as well as looking at the art. Since our planned event for the evening didn’t materialize we decided to go to the organ, trumpet and tympani concert at St Charles Church. We thought we were going to do that last night but they had printed the date incorrectly in the travel brochure. The concert was quite interacting since the organ console was at the back in the balcony, eliminating the possibility of watching the organist play for his solos pieces. For the pieces with trumpet and tympani, they used a small choir organ at the front of the church, which was keyboard only. The inside of the church was very ornate in the baroque style and provided interesting eye candy during the concert.

I guess you’re a seasoned traveller when none of this rattles you – relax and just go with the flow. Tomorrow should be better and hopefully we’ll be on a bus touring the Danube Valley.

0% Chance of Rain

25 Wednesday Jun 2014

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That’s what the weather report said, but maybe the graphic which showed raindrops was more correct. We had a somewhat slow start today, actually sleeping in until 9:30 despite the sound of garbage and delivery trucks on the street below. The muffled sound of voices at the cafés lulled us to sleep last night but the sound of someone talking very loudly at 3:00 am wasn’t as welcome. Memories of a similar happening in London 15 years ago and the joys of staying in an older hotel without air conditioning.

We decided to do a walking tour first and then planned to watch Seigfreid by Wagner at the opera house free outdoor presentation. The tour was about an hour through the inner part of Vienna – highlighting some of the churches, fountains, and special establishments. We learned about the real Sacher Hotel, home of the Sacher Torte and Dremel’s the oldest coffee house in Vienna. We also saw the newest condos in downtown Vienna – 31,000€ per square meter. That’s $3M for a 1000 sq ft apartment. No idea what the condo fees would be monthly, but I guess we don’t need to know since the guide said all the units are sold.

Just as we returned to the Opera House, the heavens opened and the rain poured down. We spent about 45 minutes waiting under the porch for the rain to abate enough so we could get back to the hotel. George’s observation was that rain makes people happy since everyone had a grin or smile on their face as they dodged their way through the rain to the safety of our porch. Since everything was very wet at this point, we decided a rest before dinner was in order.

Dinner was traditional Wiener schnitzel at a little cafe next door. The maître d’ is out there each time we pass and we told him yesterday that we’d be back to see him one night. Tonight was the night. Vienna dining is very reminiscent of Melbourne…much of it al fresco with the requisite good natured attempt to convince you to eat at their establishment. After dinner we walked over to the Opera House and managed about 3 minutes before the rain started again. This time we decided dessert was in order so enjoyed the real Sacher Torte accompanied by coffee/hot chocolate. Now home to watch a soccer game with German commentary!

We’ve arrived

24 Tuesday Jun 2014

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A long day of travel is almost coming to a close! Door to door, it was very close to 24 hours on the go. Our flight from Toronto to Frankfurt was pretty uneventful except for the odd screeching child. Since the plane was quite cool overnight, blanket-over- the- head was the preferred sleeping method. We managed about an hour or so. Making our way through the Frankfurt airport was also quite a challenge – about a half hour walk including at least three sets of stairs with hand baggage in tow.

Our wait times at the various transfer points turned out to be not too bad. We passed the time reading, eating and walking the terminal building. Getting a taxi at the Budapest airport was an exciting adventure. I had read on the internet about the taxi system in Hungary. There are three ‘official’ taxi companies but signs at the airport warn you about the cowboy taxi drivers who accost you before you can get out of the terminal building. We divided and conquered and in the end paid what is a reasonable fair.

Taking the train from Budapest to Vienna was a nice relaxing way to travel. We went first class, which was fortunate because second class included a large tour group of high schoolers who were very noisy. Dinner was served at our seat – George had Moroccan and I had Indian.

Our hotel is a small family-run enterprise in the downtown walking zone. We had to roll our luggage along the cobblestones about half a block. After settling in, we went for a brief walk along the main shopping street, which reminded me of Sparks Street in Ottawa – only much classier. Along the small street where our hotel is located are four or five outdoor cafés which look like possibilities for dinner. The Musik Haus – an interactive music museum – is right across the road and I’m looking forward to directing the orchestra there.

So we’ve arrived safe and sound. Now to bed and then to decide what tomorrow will bring.

Taking off again

23 Monday Jun 2014

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Well here we are again back at Pearson Airport awaiting our flight to Budapest via Frankfurt. The purpose of our trip is the Mississauga Festival Choir European Tour, but we are doing a pre-tour trip to Vienna for five days. The choir tour will take us to Budapest, Vienna, Salzburg and Prague over the course of 12 days. The International Terminal 1 has certainly changed since our last visit here. There are hundreds of iPads set up at desks with funky lamps and high counters with stools. Use is free and you don’t even have to purchase anything. One of the men we can see from our comfy seat by the window is sipping his wine and checking email…at least that’s what I thought until I wandered by and found him playing free cell.

Since we haven’t travelled Lufthansa before, we are curious to see how good their service is compared to Air New Zealand. Our flight will be a little less than 8 hours followed by a 4 hour wait in Frankfurt before our flight to Budapest. Unfortunately we likely won’t make the afternoon train to Vienna, so there will be a 5 hour wait at the train station and then a 3 or 4 hour ride to Vienna. Did anyone say tired? I’m already looking forward to a snooze!

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